Achieving atmospheric glaze effects in electric kilns at mid-fire temperatures, through the layering of sprayed glazes. The starting point recipes are given in two discussions "Strontium Crystal Magic . . ." and "The Companion Glazes"
Thanks for the info on the fake ash glazes! I will have to see if I can get the college professor to let me mix a small batch, because I love the effects you get with them.
Eric Preece (aka Zoophagous) is testing a number of Steven's recipes @ cone 6 in an electric kiln and reporting on them at http://ultramegaceramics.blogspot.com. Even though he hasn't formally joined this group, he is with us in spirit, and he is the only one publishing any results so far. I'm gearing up for a glaze fire next weekend and will do basic tests on the recipes I have ingredients for.
For those interested, my work is as much about single firing as about atmospheric effects in oxidation. The Fire It Once group was up before I went to the SH workshop, so I'm leaving it active. The amount of info over there is continuing to build, so you might join that group as well, if you want to explore single firing. The glazes that are being discussed here, so far, are tailored to single firing. If you want to continue bisque firing, then you can work with less clay in your glazes.
Hi, we have been using Steven's glaze recipes with Cone 6 electric firing for several years now. Some needed to be moffied slightly and the spary combinations need to be understood on several test pots to gain the proper ratio knowledge.
The glaze receipes can be found on our web site or can be purcahsed through GlazeMixer.com
Hi Michele, Please contact us directly at studio@lakesidepottery.com. our website is www.lakesidepottery.com. The combo is weatherd bronze over black (recipes on web).
Anthony Andersen uses the S.H. glazes and layering techniques. He posted a link to pictures of pots and spraying techniques from one of Steven's workshops. This is the link.
Nice photos! Although Steven doesn't use a respirator when spraying (inside or outside), please be aware that it is the safest way to go about it. Some of his glazes (or any other glazes) have some toxic elements you don't really want to be breathing.
Yes, the home page pot and the Facebook photos are truly fired to cone 6. He and I reformulated all his glazes to work at this temperature. He no longer fires to cone 8.
As a resident artist I have to send you to www.stevenhillpottery.com and ask you to email him directly from the sight. I do not have the authority to release his info. But I know he will be happy to discuss everything with you.
This group was set up in Sept. of 09 after I attended Steven's Oxidation vs. Reduction workshop. It was my hope that he would participate and take a leadership role here, but for his own reasons or time constraints he does not participate.
Rather than asking for Steven and his resident artist to give us the results and benefits of their work, we should be continuing to work on our own taking the work forward. The base recipes are published at Lakeside Pottery. Strontium Crystal Magic has strontium, lithium, calcium, and alumina, which are all crystal forming components in addition to their fluxing or stabilizing properties in the glaze melt. We know that SCM will melt at cone 6, but that is at the very low end of it's range and it might not give all the interative effects that we see when it's fired higher. Our job is to lower the melting point just a little, and retain the interactive qualities that are so desirable. Any one have any ideas on how we might do that? Anyone willing to do some testing to check out those ideas?
I can tell you that SCM, the watercolors, the juicy fruits and pier black have not been changed. Ferro Frit 3124 and 3134 work well in the lowering process. We due to my tests have even added a few new cone 6 glazes which all of you can do since they are so numerous.
It is my recommendation that you all use Hyerglaze or Insight to balance your formulas (recipes). It's not hard just time consuming.
George I am just trying to get everyone excited not give all the answers. I was a member before before I was his resident. But I agree that everyone should be doing their own work and not depending on someone to tell them what to do or hold their hands. I cannot due to proprietary restraints.
I guess I do whole-heartedly agree with you! Everyone get to work.
REMEMBER HIS EMAIL IS ON HIS WEBSITE...www.stevenhillpotteyr.com.
Steven is on the road but has an iPhone now so he can bet text and emails. sahill@me.com. He is great returning emails. Just takes a few days sometimes.
Another casserole with Steven's glazes and Coyote's, on stoneware at cone six. (I use Coyote's Rust Brown and Shino for the orange/tawny color, as I've had trouble with spotted black.) SCM base, Hannah's fake ash very lightly, Rust Brown, splash of Shino, MC6G Spearmint, 2D blue.
Thanks, still working out the kinks. My husband built a spray booth using an "all house" fan and some pvc piping to run water down the walls. He has plans to build an improved version this winter. Works pretty well.
Teresa, thanks for showing your beautiful work. I have been having trouble with the spotted black also. How are you using both the Shino and Rust Brown to obtain the orange, are they layered one over the other or used independently. Which gives you the richest orange?
Michele, spraying the Coyote Rust Brown over SCMO will give a nice soft matte warm brown surface with some almost dark plum margins. I wanted more orange, so tried spraying a streak of Coyote Shino over the Rust Brown, and it gives a nice gloss orange splash. MC6G Spearmint gives a soft green, think I'll apply it heavier next time.
One of the effects I like is the sparse "snowflakes" that Steven was getting by very lightly laying 2D blue over the other glazes. I haven't gotten it to work for me. Is this working for anyone else? Do you have any specific info on how to get it to work? Should it be large droplets or a fine mist that gathers together? Which other glazes does it work with?
2D blue works for me on most all glazes. I spray it lightly. My sprayers don't make a fine mist...more of an atomized mist but not big droplets. A couple things I've noted if it is sprayed heavily...makes a big splotch instead of snowflakes; and if on a gloss glaze on porcelain will run like crazy.
Does anyone have the colorant percentage for Water Color Blue? I have the green recipe, but not the blue.
I am fresh off of a Steven Hill workshop 4/10/2011. If the recipe you have for WC Green has 8% copper carb, reduce that to 6% copper carb and add 1% cobalt carb per Steven Hill.
I will be attending Steven's workshop this summer and I am looking forward to reading about others results post workshop. I would also like to ask previous attendees how many bisque pieces they took for glazing.
I expect this will be limited more by where you are taking the workshop than by the workshop format itself. In my instance, the workshop flier said bring up to (lol) two small pots to glaze and fire. Since the workshop was local to me, and I intended to fire my own pots, I asked the workshop's venue director if the limitation was for firing or glaze amount. He indicated firing, so I asked him if I could discretely fire two more, to which he agreed. The glazing was set up in 11 spraying workstations, so my adding a couple more didn't affect anyone else. I also saw a number of folks glazing more than two, some many more. My workshop was a two day, one day Steven demonstrating throwing, the next glazing. Firing was post workshop, so no next day critiques.
I just started the micro-crystalline glazing techniques used by Steven Hill. Attached is a photo of Lager glasses glazed with SCM, White Satin Matte and Randy's Red. Note the gold crystals in the RR.Lager.jpg
This is a bowl with SCM and Weathered Bronze Green (Pete Pinnell). Pretty dry. Considering the base for Weathered Bronze Green is Pinnell Strontium Matte. I'm going to be trying the Pinnell Strontium Matte as you would with SCM. It has double the Strontium. We'll see.SCM &
George Lewter
Sep 21, 2009
Robert Young
Sep 23, 2009
George Lewter
Sep 28, 2009
George Lewter
Oct 4, 2009
George Lewter
Nov 19, 2009
Morty Bachar
The glaze receipes can be found on our web site or can be purcahsed through GlazeMixer.com
Dec 16, 2009
Michele Hartung
Dec 16, 2009
Morty Bachar
Kindly, Morty
Dec 16, 2009
George Lewter
Oct 14, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Oct 14, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 18, 2010
Robert Seele
Oct 19, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 22, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 28, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 29, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 30, 2010
George Lewter
Rather than asking for Steven and his resident artist to give us the results and benefits of their work, we should be continuing to work on our own taking the work forward. The base recipes are published at Lakeside Pottery. Strontium Crystal Magic has strontium, lithium, calcium, and alumina, which are all crystal forming components in addition to their fluxing or stabilizing properties in the glaze melt. We know that SCM will melt at cone 6, but that is at the very low end of it's range and it might not give all the interative effects that we see when it's fired higher. Our job is to lower the melting point just a little, and retain the interactive qualities that are so desirable. Any one have any ideas on how we might do that? Anyone willing to do some testing to check out those ideas?
Oct 30, 2010
CM Partin
It is my recommendation that you all use Hyerglaze or Insight to balance your formulas (recipes). It's not hard just time consuming.
George I am just trying to get everyone excited not give all the answers. I was a member before before I was his resident. But I agree that everyone should be doing their own work and not depending on someone to tell them what to do or hold their hands. I cannot due to proprietary restraints.
I guess I do whole-heartedly agree with you! Everyone get to work.
REMEMBER HIS EMAIL IS ON HIS WEBSITE...www.stevenhillpotteyr.com.
Oct 30, 2010
CM Partin
Oct 30, 2010
CM Partin
Nov 10, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Nov 19, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Nov 19, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Nov 19, 2010
CM Partin
Nov 20, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Nov 20, 2010
Dave Hodapp
Beautiful cassaroles. Both style and glazing. May I ask what is SCMO? I am familiar with the other glazes but don't recognize SCMO.
Thanks
Nov 23, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Nov 24, 2010
Michele Hartung
Dec 3, 2010
Teresa Wooden
Dec 3, 2010
George Lewter
One of the effects I like is the sparse "snowflakes" that Steven was getting by very lightly laying 2D blue over the other glazes. I haven't gotten it to work for me. Is this working for anyone else? Do you have any specific info on how to get it to work? Should it be large droplets or a fine mist that gathers together? Which other glazes does it work with?
Dec 12, 2010
George Lewter
Does anyone have the colorant percentage for Water Color Blue? I have the green recipe, but not the blue.
Dec 12, 2010
Teresa Wooden
2D blue works for me on most all glazes. I spray it lightly. My sprayers don't make a fine mist...more of an atomized mist but not big droplets. A couple things I've noted if it is sprayed heavily...makes a big splotch instead of snowflakes; and if on a gloss glaze on porcelain will run like crazy.
Dec 12, 2010
John Lowes
Question on December 12, 2010 at 3:27pm :
Does anyone have the colorant percentage for Water Color Blue? I have the green recipe, but not the blue.
I am fresh off of a Steven Hill workshop 4/10/2011. If the recipe you have for WC Green has 8% copper carb, reduce that to 6% copper carb and add 1% cobalt carb per Steven Hill.
Apr 11, 2011
J dubats
May 17, 2011
John Lowes
May 17, 2011
Joe Shaw
I just started the micro-crystalline glazing techniques used by Steven Hill. Attached is a photo of Lager glasses glazed with SCM, White Satin Matte and Randy's Red. Note the gold crystals in the RR.Lager.jpg
May 17, 2011
Joe Shaw
May 17, 2011
Joe Shaw
May 19, 2011