Cone 6 Glaze Recipes

Glaze Recipe Etiquette

Many recipes are already posted on this network, and you can search for them yourself by typing in the name in the SEARCH box at the upper right hand corner of all of our pages.  A thousand or more are listed on the Sankey glaze database which is also posted on this network.  With the Sankey database, which is an enormous web page, you need to go to the edit menu of your browser and select "Find", then type in the glaze name you are searching for. Look down the page with the "Find Next" button until you've checked all the possibles. The next step would be to do a Google search of the Internet for the recipe you're looking for. If you find the recipe, it would be generous and helpful to post it on our network yourself, giving credit to the source where you found it. 

If these three techniques don't turn up the recipe you seek, THEN it is a reasonable thing to request one of our members to either post the recipe on the network or to email it to you. Asking for recipes without due diligence on your part is like asking someone else to do your job for you. It will not enhance your reputation.

Cone 6 Glaze Recipes

As a starting point, here is a list of online sources of cone 6 glaze recipes.
Group 1 - Having both photographs and commentary on the glazes.

  •  John Post generously shares his glaze research, and coats his simple forms with spectacular glazes. He has extensive information on a technique of glaze testing.
  • Alisa Clausen has the most extensive photo-documented cone 6  glaze test collection (on flicker) that I have found. Most of the recipes are for cone 6 glazes. The right column of her page links to groups of glaze tests. Her source of recipes is largely the Sankey Glaze Database which is available right here on our network.
  • John Anthony's Red Hill Pottery has some great shots and notes on his tests of many published recipes.
  • June Perry does extensive glaze testing and shares her results generously on her Website.
  • James Jacobs has a set of ^6 recipes with pictures on his Website. Caution -- all of the photos of finished examples were fired in reduction. He says only the cobalt blues and heavy iron formulas would be useful in oxidation.

Group 2 Recipes not as well documented as Group 1

  • The clayart discussions at potters.org are a prodigous source of ^6 glaze recipes, but you won't find pictures here. Some of the discussions give links to Websites with pictures, but generally you will only find recipes and written descriptions of glaze characteristics. The SDSU ceramicsweb glazebase seems to be offline. The creator of GlazeChem glaze calculation software downloaded the entire glazebase in 2001, and has it available for downloading in GlazeChem format. I've extracted the cone 6 recipes and commentary and converted it to a Word document. Here is a link for you to download the 275 page document - CeramicsWebClayartCone6Glazes.doc
  • Lakeside Pottery has an extensive list of their glaze recipes, but they refer you to their gallery to see the glazes in use without a one-to-one match up of recipe to picture. These appear to be worth exploring as they produce some very nice pieces.
  • Val Cushing had an article in the June 1977 issue of Studio Potter that listed a number of his recipes for glazes and engobes (or slips). Note that a number of the glazes utilize Barium Carbonate which in the intervening years has fallen from grace for its toxicity. It would be prudent not to use these glazes on the interior or mouth contact surfaces of table ware or cookware.

Group 3 Recipes lacking significant documentation.

  • I have a collection of them in a Word document totalling 61 pages. I am posting the document here for you to download and test as you like. If you do test any of them, please report your results in detail here. Good Luck. collectedglazes.doc

Let's see if our members have any interest in sharing glaze recipes. If you want to post a recipe, please follow the following guidelines.

  • Use the conventional 100 unit batch formula and the full descriptive names of all ingredients.
  • Include the source of the recipe
  • Include application methods, best thickness of application, and cautions about defects you've encountered
  • Include any special firing techniques
  • Post a picture of the fired glaze
  • If known, include the coefficient of expansion, and the clay body you've used with the glaze.

Please do not post recipes from copyrighted sources.

Comment

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Comment by Kathy Ransom on June 8, 2014 at 10:34am

The Alberta Potters Assoc AGM was yesterday and we had a day long workshop with Tony Hansen.  It was terrific to see his samples and go through Insight Live, talk about glaze faults and particularly about glaze safety.  Great workshop!

Comment by Brent Farler on August 27, 2013 at 7:42pm

thanks for the input.  Yes it does have a lot of purple in it and having experimented with iron reds I can say it definitely does not behave the same way.  Pretty stable by itself and reacts nicely when the right glaze is painted over it - floating is the word Amaco uses. It also tends to turn more black if overfired so that supports the idea they are using stains.

I have some red stains that mixed might come close.  When I layer a cobalt bearing glaze into my RIO colored glazes I tend to get greens and blues.

I will mix up the Digital Fire Floating Red since my wife consumes quite a bit of the amaco version.  Might save me a pretty penny.  Good recommendation.  She is nuts over reds, oranges and other deep earth tones and I know i should be exploring the various variations of jen's juicy fruit.  

I don't have access to gas (except 7500' beneath us) so reduction firing for copper reds hasn't been affordable.

Comment by Norm Stuart on August 27, 2013 at 2:36pm

The only path I know to a very bright red is low-fire cadmium Ferro Frit CM-942 and Ferro Frit CM-943 for yellow. Both sold by Laguna and other vendors.

These frits are a complete glaze, which is sort of inconvenient because the Red CM-942 reacts badly to bentonite, so I mix it with Xanthan gum. The Red CM-942 also turns into a bubbly black if fired in a bisque or similar reducing atmosphere.

The two frits mixed together 50:50

Comment by Norm Stuart on August 27, 2013 at 2:22pm

The new Amaco Firebrick Red is less red than a Magruder Red, almost a purple like there's some cobalt in the glaze as well.  But it's so uniform in color they may use a stain rather than synthetic iron oxide.

This is a tile of orange-colored Digitalfire Floating Red (aka Amaco Ancient Jasper), over Amaco Firebrick Red.

Firebrick Red on a cup, courtesy of Moose and Sheep.

Firebrick Red Cup

This is our tile of Magruder Red with synthetic iron oxide from US Pigment.

Out tile of Orange Street, in the insight-live database.

For comparison, Laguna dry-mix MS-96 Dynasty Red and MS-97 Mandarin Orange.

These colors are also sold as MS-98  Red stain and MS-99 Orange stain.

This is Sankey Red made the the horrible recycled steel content Laguna Red Iron Oxide with barium. Even more purple than Firebrick Red.

This is Sankey Red made with Synthetic Red Iron Oxide from Standard Ceramic.

Comment by Barbara Hanselman on August 26, 2013 at 3:06pm

I am not familiar with the new Amaco Deep Firebrick but perhaps it is similar to the Magruder Red which I got from this site awhile back.  I also have used Randy's Red as a layering glaze under Lynne's Glossy Grey and it works great.

LYNN’S GLOSSY GREY ^5 – 9

This is a glossy glaze with a lot of movement. This glaze looks best on textured surfaces or over engobes or clay bodies containing red iron.

50%     Gerstley Borate
305      Silica 325
15%     EPK
05%     Titanium Dioxide


For GLOSSY GREY ADD:
2.5%    Soda Ash
2.0%    Copper Carbonate
1.0%    Red Iron Oxide
0.75%  Cobalt Carbonate

Magruder’s (Iron) Red cone 6 oxidation John Britt

44.8% Kona F-4

12.3% Silica

18.2% Talc

16.1% Bone Ash 

04.3%  EPK 

04.3% Lithium Carbonate

02. 0% Bentonite

12.3% Synthetic Iron Oxide

RANDY’S RED ^6 oxidation 

This is a glossy, translucent glaze which works better as a liner or “inside” glaze. The red goes very orange if re-introduced to bisque firing temperatures after a cone 5-6 firing.  This glaze can be runny.

31%     Gerstley Borate          

20%     Kona F4

14%     Talc

30%     Silica 325

05%     EPK              

For RED ADD:                                                 

15%     Red Iron Oxide

02%     Bentonite  

 

Comment by Brent Farler on August 26, 2013 at 2:53pm

Amaco has a cone 6 glaze call Deep Firebrick.  It is a nice layering glaze that gives a deep red when used under more reactive and floating glazes.  Does anyone seen a recipe for something similar?

Comment by Donna Kat on April 8, 2013 at 1:41pm
Comment by Donna Kat on April 8, 2013 at 1:39pm
Comment by Donna Kat on April 8, 2013 at 1:39pm

I noticed a comment on matte glazes that seemed incomplete and a reference to Lakeside Pottery as a reference.  If you are following the recommendations made by Ron Roy and John Hesselberth in Mastering Cone 6 Glazes then the lower limit for silica in a glaze is 2.5 in the Unity calculation.  I am seeing many glazes that are well below this measure and many of the glazes at Lakeside Pottery are below the limit.  I am not saying that these glazes are not stable or usable as functional glazes but I would think they should be looked at with caution.  The matte glazes in MC6 are high Calcium glazes and must be cooled slowly for crystal development.  Many of the matte glazes I am seeing are under fired glazes. 

Comment by Aparna on March 11, 2013 at 12:37am
Thank you, you ll have loads of questions coming from me in future, already liking this network for prompt reply...
Comment by Aparna on March 11, 2013 at 12:23am
Hello, can anyone help me find a substitute for nepheline syenite? In my country it's not available, and most beautiful glaze receipes have nepheline syenite.
Comment by Marithou dupoux on January 26, 2013 at 9:46am
Ihave fired it at^6 and it is quiet ok but I add 12% ilmenite for the out side and look quiet good
Comment by Barbara Hanselman on January 25, 2013 at 1:35pm

Speaking of John Britt, he is writing a book on cone 6 glazes and is looking for glaze submissions accompanied by pictures.... JohnBrittPottery@gmail.com

Comment by Peter H. Pache on January 25, 2013 at 11:05am

There's an article by John Britt in the February CM about using stains, and he uses this 5x20 base glaze.

Comment by June Perry on January 25, 2013 at 10:52am

Brian, although wollastonite brings close to equal parts of calcium and silica to the table, the silica amount in the wollastonite and in the spar may not be enough to satisfy the amount needed in the recipe.

Comment by Peter H. Pache on January 23, 2013 at 4:46pm

It's the base glaze that I use at ^ 5, so should likely be fine at ^ 6.

Comment by Marithou dupoux on January 23, 2013 at 1:47pm
I have this glaze food safe clear base and want to know if it s a ^ 6. As I did not notice any indication
Wollastonite20. Ferro frit 3134 20. EPK. 20. Silica 20 Custer Feldspar 20
Thanks
Marithou
Comment by George Lewter on June 28, 2012 at 8:34pm

The Vals Turquoise recipe from Alisa Clausen that I posted is not missing anything. It was just not normalized to 100 units for the base recipe plus additives.

I normalized it to 

Custer Spar 35.6

Gerstley Borate 21.8

Silica 27.5

Dolomite 3.7

Whiting 11.4

__________________

Total 100

Additives 

Copper carbonate 2.9

Bentonite 1.0

My test of the recipe yielded results very similar to those in Alisa's photo.

Comment by Donna Ferrara on April 23, 2012 at 7:21am

Red River

Flint           28

EPK            18

Neph Sy      18

Bone Ash     9

Dolomite     9

Gerstley Borate  9

Talc           9

Spanish Red Iron Oxide   20%

the dr brown on the bottle is this glaze fired w/o a hold or slow cooling.  I think when fired properly it should be rust, breaking dr brown.

Comment by EE on April 6, 2012 at 1:45pm

Hillman, you posted a pic of one of my antler mugs below, saying you are interested in getting a hares fur glaze finish.  I use commercial glazes on anything meant to be food safe as I have never tested my own glazes for food safety.  If you would like to duplicate the finish on my mugs use Coyote black (2 to 3 coats) as the base, followed by 2 coats Coyote Shino and sometimes I add some leopard shino too.  This combination over a brown speckled clay gives a nice range of color falling into what I call camoflauge color palette. 

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Purchase Glazes Cone 6 by Michael Bailey, The Potters Book of Glaze Recipes by Emmanuel Cooper, or Making Marks by Robin Hopper, all available at amazon.comMastering Cone 6 Glazes by John Hesselberth & Ron Roy is now out of print.

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