"For clear I use the one they designated as a clear liner glaze on page 97. They mention that it is more transparent than base glaze 1. It uses G-200 Feldspar which I still have but I've made note of the changes for using G-200 HP. "
"This is a terribly old post but if it gets revisited I would like to add my 2cents.
I think this was one of the most frustrating aspects of being the AR in a studio of over 100 people. The first thing I did was to take off all the name labels from…"
"George - Looking at the comparison with G1214W, the glaze you use:
Has far less calcium, so no calcium semi-matte look with a very slow-cool;
Although it has 40% more boron than G1214W, it has a lower 8.0 SiB:Al ratio - so too much alumina.to…"
"I recommend this glaze. I have never seen it cloudy, yellow, or blue, (though it will sometimes trap tiny air bubbles). I use it exclusively on my slip decorated pieces, As you can see on this link, I've used it for 8 years
"Donna - In general, glazes become yellow from Iron and blue from Boron.
There's two ways for G1214W to cloud up, especially with slower cooling.
It has a generous amount of Boron and Silica which can produce "Boron Clouding" which is…"
Has anyone worked with Tony Hansen's G1214W Clear? I had thought I had found the perfect clear for our studio when I found this glaze. It did not craze on Standard clays. It was crystal clear and it behaved well with all the underglazes used with it. Then it started turning milky. I weigh the glazes so it was not an issue of thickness or application. I worried about contamination but after several new batches for testing I convinced myself that no, it was the glaze. Some people suggested that…See More
"Question, are not the ingredients limited to what is in the database of materials? I know that the database does have additional names so if I type in neph, it will replace it with Nepheline Syenite. If I type something that isn't in the AKA…"
What is your experience with ceramics in general. (Long answer encouraged)
Though I have worked with ceramics since early 70s it has always been the smaller part of my life which I fit in as I was able. I have mixed up glazes for studios for quite a few years. Making glazes for a studio setting is quite different than what one does for ones self. Glazes which work well for a wide range of both personal taste and ability is probably one of the more challenging aspects of the work I have done. Now that I am back to only working for myself and having the time to devote to the craft, I am looking forward to potting to my hearts content.
What is your current involvement with electric fired ceramics? (long answer encouraged)
Slowly getting back into gear. I have just now gotten to the point where I realize how little I know.
All our content is viewable by the public. Why do you want to be a member, when you can already see everything as a non-member?
Some day I will have the time to be more active and would like to be part of this site.
Where do you work on your ceramics projects?
How did you find this network?
Link or reference from another site
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Low cost flat lapping disc can be used on you potters wheel if you, drill bat pin holes in it, and provide a trickle of water to cool it. At amazon.com, 120 grit for aggressive material removal. Click the image to purchase
Members have had great things to say about John Britt's new book, Mid-Range Glazes. Click the image to buy from Amazon.com
If you just want to spout off, it is best accomplished as a blog posting. If you want to get more guidance and ideas from other members, ask a question as a new discussion topic. In the upper right corner of the lists for both types of posting, you will find an "+Add " button. Clicking it will open an editor where you create your posting. 4/16/2014