Potters & Sculptors - Making Rock from Mud
Glaze Recipe Etiquette
Many recipes are already posted on this network, and you can search for them yourself by typing in the name in the SEARCH box at the upper right hand corner of all of our pages. A thousand or more are listed on the Sankey glaze database which is also posted on this network. With the Sankey database, which is an enormous web page, you need to go to the edit menu of your browser and select "Find", then type in the glaze name you are searching for. Look down the page with the "Find Next" button until you've checked all the possibles. The next step would be to do a Google search of the Internet for the recipe you're looking for. If you find the recipe, it would be generous and helpful to post it on our network yourself, giving credit to the source where you found it.
If these three techniques don't turn up the recipe you seek, THEN it is a reasonable thing to request one of our members to either post the recipe on the network or to email it to you. Asking for recipes without due diligence on your part is like asking someone else to do your job for you. It will not enhance your reputation.
Cone 6 Glaze Recipes
As a starting point, here is a list of online sources of cone 6 glaze recipes.
Group 1 - Having both photographs and commentary on the glazes.
Group 2 Recipes not as well documented as Group 1
Group 3 Recipes lacking significant documentation.
Let's see if our members have any interest in sharing glaze recipes. If you want to post a recipe, please follow the following guidelines.
Please do not post recipes from copyrighted sources.
I added two of the popular glazes from Insight-Live, Weathered Bronze Green with Fluoride and Orange Street to Glazy.org to try it out. It is an attractive format.
Glazy Admin has also added a number of my photos of my test tiles for other glaze recipes I've shared in posts online here on Cone6Pots.
Howdy George, I didn't see anything about Glazy.org. This is probably the most comprehensive glaze site I've seen in my 55 years of pottery. The pictures are what make it so!
The Alberta Potters Assoc AGM was yesterday and we had a day long workshop with Tony Hansen. It was terrific to see his samples and go through Insight Live, talk about glaze faults and particularly about glaze safety. Great workshop!
thanks for the input. Yes it does have a lot of purple in it and having experimented with iron reds I can say it definitely does not behave the same way. Pretty stable by itself and reacts nicely when the right glaze is painted over it - floating is the word Amaco uses. It also tends to turn more black if overfired so that supports the idea they are using stains.
I have some red stains that mixed might come close. When I layer a cobalt bearing glaze into my RIO colored glazes I tend to get greens and blues.
I will mix up the Digital Fire Floating Red since my wife consumes quite a bit of the amaco version. Might save me a pretty penny. Good recommendation. She is nuts over reds, oranges and other deep earth tones and I know i should be exploring the various variations of jen's juicy fruit.
I don't have access to gas (except 7500' beneath us) so reduction firing for copper reds hasn't been affordable.
The only path I know to a very bright red is low-fire cadmium Ferro Frit CM-942 and Ferro Frit CM-943 for yellow. Both sold by Laguna and other vendors.
These frits are a complete glaze, which is sort of inconvenient because the Red CM-942 reacts badly to bentonite, so I mix it with Xanthan gum. The Red CM-942 also turns into a bubbly black if fired in a bisque or similar reducing atmosphere.
The two frits mixed together 50:50
The new Amaco Firebrick Red is less red than a Magruder Red, almost a purple like there's some cobalt in the glaze as well. But it's so uniform in color they may use a stain rather than synthetic iron oxide.
This is a tile of orange-colored Digitalfire Floating Red (aka Amaco Ancient Jasper), over Amaco Firebrick Red.
Firebrick Red on a cup, courtesy of Moose and Sheep.
This is our tile of Magruder Red with synthetic iron oxide from US Pigment.
Out tile of Orange Street, in the insight-live database.
For comparison, Laguna dry-mix MS-96 Dynasty Red and MS-97 Mandarin Orange.
These colors are also sold as MS-98 Red stain and MS-99 Orange stain.
This is Sankey Red made the the horrible recycled steel content Laguna Red Iron Oxide with barium. Even more purple than Firebrick Red.
This is Sankey Red made with Synthetic Red Iron Oxide from Standard Ceramic.
I am not familiar with the new Amaco Deep Firebrick but perhaps it is similar to the Magruder Red which I got from this site awhile back. I also have used Randy's Red as a layering glaze under Lynne's Glossy Grey and it works great.
LYNN’S GLOSSY GREY ^5 – 9
This is a glossy glaze with a lot of movement. This glaze looks best on textured surfaces or over engobes or clay bodies containing red iron.
50% Gerstley Borate
305 Silica 325
05% Titanium Dioxide
For GLOSSY GREY ADD:
2.5% Soda Ash
2.0% Copper Carbonate
1.0% Red Iron Oxide
0.75% Cobalt Carbonate
Magruder’s (Iron) Red cone 6 oxidation John Britt
44.8% Kona F-4
16.1% Bone Ash
04.3% Lithium Carbonate
02. 0% Bentonite
12.3% Synthetic Iron Oxide
RANDY’S RED ^6 oxidation
This is a glossy, translucent glaze which works better as a liner or “inside” glaze. The red goes very orange if re-introduced to bisque firing temperatures after a cone 5-6 firing. This glaze can be runny.
31% Gerstley Borate
20% Kona F4
30% Silica 325
For RED ADD:
15% Red Iron Oxide
Amaco has a cone 6 glaze call Deep Firebrick. It is a nice layering glaze that gives a deep red when used under more reactive and floating glazes. Does anyone seen a recipe for something similar?
I noticed a comment on matte glazes that seemed incomplete and a reference to Lakeside Pottery as a reference. If you are following the recommendations made by Ron Roy and John Hesselberth in Mastering Cone 6 Glazes then the lower limit for silica in a glaze is 2.5 in the Unity calculation. I am seeing many glazes that are well below this measure and many of the glazes at Lakeside Pottery are below the limit. I am not saying that these glazes are not stable or usable as functional glazes but I would think they should be looked at with caution. The matte glazes in MC6 are high Calcium glazes and must be cooled slowly for crystal development. Many of the matte glazes I am seeing are under fired glazes.
Speaking of John Britt, he is writing a book on cone 6 glazes and is looking for glaze submissions accompanied by pictures.... JohnBrittPottery@gmail.com
There's an article by John Britt in the February CM about using stains, and he uses this 5x20 base glaze.
Brian, although wollastonite brings close to equal parts of calcium and silica to the table, the silica amount in the wollastonite and in the spar may not be enough to satisfy the amount needed in the recipe.
It's the base glaze that I use at ^ 5, so should likely be fine at ^ 6.
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