Does anyone know how to do this with ^6 glaze?

acrylic paint pouring

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Where are you going with this?

Except for the organic acrylic part, there's a big chemistry overlap between paint and glaze.

Some add Floetrol paint additive to glaze to make it flow more smoothly like paint. There's better alternatives like propylene glycol but the orange container is available everywhere.

I'm experimenting with a variety of additive's such as Sodium silicate, Epsom salts, CMC, glycerin, flotrol and bumblebee farts.  It seems very difficult to get the right consistency to both flow but not mix.

Try Graham's Salt, a commercial deflocculant used in foods like artificial maple syrup to make it flow and keep the ingredients suspended, aka Sodium Hexametaphosphate (SHMP).  This is also used by soil scientists to break-up clay soil samples into a slurry for analysis. 


This obviously adds some sodium and potassium to the glaze which is more flux, so runnier at melt.

Mixing any glaze with a clear acrylic paint base, like Liquitex Clear Acrylic or Acrylic Floor Wax, makes the glaze into actual paint without changing the chemistry as the acrylic fires out. Great for painting glaze on previously glaze fired work - and I think it's safe to say that nothing could be more like paint than paint itself.

Sadly white glue (polyvinyl acetates) does not work with glazes containing any boron as the boron curdles the glue into a cottage cheese texture.

How is this different from sodium silicate?

I dislike the hard silicate deposits which sodium silicate can leave, which is why it's used as a paperboard adhesive and not for plaster molds.

SHMP (Sodium Hexametaphosphate) is one of several phosphate deflocculant / dispersant compounds always found in paint. Sodium silicate and white wash are older technologies. -

We don't do a lot of slip-casting, so we only buy Darvan 811 whose much longer polymer length is far better at keeping glazes dispersed without hard-panning than Darvan 7 is. In other words, more paint-ish. But Darvan is more costly, biodegradable and can't be frozen so it's for more of a short-term lifespan.

But two or more dispersants / deflocculants are almost always superior to one.  To quote Digitalfire "No single product acts according to all of the mechanisms described above, therefore a mixture of various compounds is usually used, whose combined action is often superior to the sum of their single actions." -

This is especially true over a wide range of pH and different glaze ingredients and colorants.

This is a kaolin study comparison of these three types of products and in combinations, behind an Elsevier paywall. -

I haven't paid so I can't give you a copy but it's possibly worth the education.

Wow, thanks for all the research.

Did you ever think about writing all this up as an article for one of the ceramics publications?

I spent some time filling with all this. All combinations of everything seemed to come out about the same.

Floetrol and a thick mix of CMC and water work about the same.

Polypropylglycol or glycerin do about the same, which is not much.

What do you think of this stuff Acrylic pouring medium

I will order some of the liquitex that you recommend

Thanks for your help

I'm getting decent patterns but not nearly the quality that you see in the video that I started this discussion with.

All the acrylic media are the same,Liqutex or Handy Art etc, so for our use buy the cheapest.

Just don't add too scrylic much because it burns out and it may crack and curl the glaze as it burns, or prevent absorption of the actual inorganic part of the glaze by the bisque.

Would I write this up for a ceramic publication? God no, I have enough to do as it is.

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