Potters & Sculptors - Making Rock from Mud
Low cost flat lapping disc can be used on you potters wheel if you, drill bat pin holes in it, and provide a trickle of water to cool it. At amazon.com, 120 grit for aggressive material removal. Click the image to purchase
Members have had great things to say about John Britt's new book, Mid-Range Glazes. Click the image to buy from Amazon.com
Purchase Glazes Cone 6 by Michael Bailey, The Potters Book of Glaze Recipes by Emmanuel Cooper, or Making Marks by Robin Hopper, all available at amazon.com. Mastering Cone 6 Glazes by John Hesselberth & Ron Roy is now out of print.
Harbor Freight is a great place to find unbeatable prices for better HVLP spray guns with stainless steel parts and serviceable economy models, as well as detail guns, all tested by our members for spraying glazes, as well as compressors to power the guns. As yet no one has tested and commented on the remarkably inexpensive air brushes at harbor freight.
The critter siphon gun is a spray alternative that is well liked by some of our members, and is available at amazon.
Amazon is also a competitive source for photo light tents for shooting professional quality pictures of your work. They also have the EZ Cube brand favored by several of our members. You might also want to purchase the book Photographing Arts, Crafts and Collectibles . . .
If you are up to creating videos of your work or techniques you might want to invest in a flip video camera
Following are a few scales useful for potters. Ohaus Triple Pro Mechanical Triple Beam Balance, 2610g x 0.1g, with Tare $169.00
And finally a low cost clone of the OHaus. The Adam Equipment TBB2610T Triple Beam Mechanical Balance With Tare Beam $99.62
ebay is a great alternative for many tools and the equipment used in the ceramics studio - kilns, wheels, extruders, slab rollers are often listed there both new and used.
If you just want to spout off, it is best accomplished as a blog posting. If you want to get more guidance and ideas from other members, ask a question as a new discussion topic. In the upper right corner of the lists for both types of posting, you will find an "+Add " button. Clicking it will open an editor where you create your posting. 4/16/2014
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Their response should be interesting, but best thing is to experiment yourself. Good luck. Let me know what you find.
Pauline
Hi Katherine, lucky you, I love jason Burnett's work. No I have not tried the thermofax method, and I don't want to deal with using emulsion, so I buy the 8.5" x 11" sheets from PhotoEZ (http://www.photoezsilkscreen.com/) which I love. I then put whatever text, artwork, etc I want on transparencies (I either can draw on the cheap ones with opaque pens (must be opaque, not just permanent), or I use my computer/printer to print very black images onto transparencies made for inkjet. Then I make a sandwich of blank emulsion page, transparency on a backer board and cover it with either glass or plexiglass and go out in the sun for 1 minute plus or minus ten seconds depending on the UV rating (best to go out about noon), then plunk the screen into water for about 15 minutes, then brush out the soft emulsion that did not harden by UV light exposure because it was blocked by the opaque lines of the artwork or text. Then dry and put in UV light again until emulsion hardens. The screen is then ready to use. I cut out all the images from the 8.5"x11" sheet if I have not used an all over design, and save in baggies for use on clay, cardstock, fabric, or whatever.
I have found this to be the most economical, quickest way to get and use silkscreens and I have made hundreds of them. I teach a class on this in Wilmington, NC. on my blog, you can see us exposing the screens to sunlight. http://paulinesstuff.blogspot.com/2010/01/using-suns-uv-rays-to-burn-silkscreen.html
I then use the screens to either print on newsprint with underglazes, then I save these in a file folder ready to use on wet or set up clay, or on top of matte glazes before firing, --or I use the screens directly on raw clay (which is my preferred method since you can scrape away any smudges, or fine tune the image, or even scrafitto into it if you want), or I use direct screens on bisque ware, and now I am experimenting with using the screens directly on top of majolica glaze before firing. There are a few critical tips necessary to make this all work. If you get a smudge on the bisqueware, you can wash whole thing off, but have to let it dry before trying again. You sometimes have to spray a very fine mist over the dry glaze before trying to silkscreen on top. Glaze that is too dry will clog the screen, same is true for bone dry clay, screening on that sometimes causes the screen to get clogged. Hope this helps.
Pauline