The pre-programmed bisque firings in the Bartlett kiln controller slow the rate of rise to 100 degrees F between 1,000 F and 1,100 F - compared to a rise of 400 F per hour in our Medium-Slow profile both below and above that temperature range.  

Extremely thick pieces need a custom program with the kaolin to meta-kaolin transition zone slowed to 50 F per hour.

Rodney Allen Roe said:

Do you slow the rate down going from, say, 960 to 1160 deg. f to 100/hr or less. to compensate for the chemical conversion and water loss?  I've glazed so far with the high calcium, semi-matte glaze, Raw Sienna (MC6), a modified version of Variegated Slate Blue (MC6), and a dry matte glaze, Dry Red Brown, which has a high kaolin content and a yellow iron oxide as a colorant.  Thanks for your comments. When this load comes out I'll share the results, good or bad.  

Thanks. I didn't think of using the pre-programmed firing.

Simon,

I'd be very glad to hear more ramblings on getting in touch with your kiln please.  I have finally secured a kiln but it has no controller.  I'm also raw glazing.  Out of necessity I am going "wild"  using only intuition and cones.  I have fire a few times in the past with a controller that seemed to be out of control anyway.  Any tips/secrets/suggestions for firing au natural would be much appreciate.

Simon said:

It's an old thread, but thought I'd add my 5 cents anyway ;)

On the initial stages of a once fire, the 'drying out' phase, I personally try to stay clear of having a precise time in mind. Yes, good to know for planning (will it finish before I'm too tired to stay awake !?) .. but inaccurate in reality.

Different kilns, different loads, different pots, different weather ... all lead to variations.

Think of the 'reason' you are holding the temperature, it is to let all the water out of the clay/glaze before moving onto the high temps where it would otherwise cause explosions.

Hence, try to only move on from the initial drying temperature when the water has indeed finished escaping, for fact.

A cold piece of mirror/steel held over the vent of your kiln for a second or two, will mist up and be wet to the touch when the water is being pushed out.

Doing this at regular intervals during the drying stage, you will also get a good feel and connection with what is happening inside, you'll see it being lite, become heavy and saturated, and yes eventually decline.

It's a nice feeling to be 'in touch' with the physical events rather than simply watching the hand on a clock.

Yet most importantly, you will know 'for sure' when it is good and safe to ramp up to the next temp.

I could go on and on, but try to connect with your kiln in a similar fashion at other stages of the cycle.
Yes you will need a time schedule in the early days just starting out, but with time you will be able to judge for yourself how to tweak for individual circumstances.

Look through the spyhole and note when the atmosphere becomes hazy, when clear, the textures and reflectance of the glazes.

Anyway, I'm rambling now !

.. happy firing :)