Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-29T07:23:26ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3139415126?profile=RESIZE_48X48&width=48&height=48&crop=1%3A1https://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject/forum/topic/listForContributor?user=12e2k5dsn7r5c&feed=yes&xn_auth=noSCM at cone 6. Glaze Issues, Firing Temp, and Chemistry Questionstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-07-12:2103784:Topic:1352642016-07-12T21:04:51.477ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>This has been created to carry over the conversation that we were having on the discussion comments instead of in a topic. I have copied and pasted the discussion that I created in order of start to current. Please lets move all topics here as it would better be searchable in the future. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt">Joseph Fireborn</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I have a question about SH's pots. I have…</p>
</div>
<p>This has been created to carry over the conversation that we were having on the discussion comments instead of in a topic. I have copied and pasted the discussion that I created in order of start to current. Please lets move all topics here as it would better be searchable in the future. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I have a question about SH's pots. I have tried using SCM, I get some really nice results, but the glaze surface always feels so gritty and sandy. It isn't really sandy or gritty but the feeling is rather odd. Does anything else get anything like this or I am doing something wrong?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>My impression has been SCM requires more than a Cone 6 to achieve the results I see others showing. The same too with Jen's Juicy Fruit. For me at Cone 6 both have too much unmelted materials - particularly the strontium in SCM.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p><span>So you think I should try getting closer to cone 7? I can do a hold at cone 6 and hold for like 30mins or something and see what happens.</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> </span></p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Catherine Rehbein fires a lot of clearly glossy melted strontium crystal magic pieces, so I'd be very curious what firing she uses to achieve this.<a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CatherineRehbein">http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CatherineRehbein</a></p>
<p>Strontium oxide produces brilliant colors like lead with low thermal expansion and can be a flux above Cone 2. But Strontium Carbonate doesn't decompose until an astounding 2,721 F, a good 350 F hotter than Cone 12.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If you're interested in an experiment, before adding the strontium carbonate to the glaze, I'd first react it with an acid like vinegar or hydrochloric acid to release the carbon dioxide.</p>
<p>Strontium acetate and strontium chloride both decompose below Cone 010, but at the expense of being far more soluble than strontium carbonate. I'm curious if this would make any change in the firing behavior of SCM. It seems unlikely but potential surprises lie in wait out there.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>So soaking strontium carbonate doesn't sound that hard. Do you think it would fully absorb into the vinegar? Or do you think if I evaporated the vinegar it will return to a type of powder?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I guess I will have to test and see. Im thinking I will mix a 2 test batchs of SCM, and a control batch. I will put the stront carb into the vinegar and let it soak overnight. I will then just directly pour one into the glaze mixture and then adjust flocculation with darvans. Then I will take another vinegar batch and try to dry it out and see what happens. If I can dry it out I will run another test using that SCM batch, and I will run a control batch just to compare. I will run the test using currie grid to see if there are some interesting results that I might be missing. </p>
<p></p>
<p>It will be a few days before I can run the grid test, I grid tiles drying right now, but how long do you think I should soak the SCM? 24 hours 36 hours? 48 hours?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I have a friend who does a lot of experimental stuff with glazes I will contact him and see if he has any opinion. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Catherine Rehbein's work is really nice and colorful, and your right it is glossy and not a sandy matte look like SH's work.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a></p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Acids combine with stronitum carbonate to bubble off the carbon dioxide (the carbonate). What you end up with depends on the type of acid used.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Vinegar (acetic acid) creates strontium acetate. Nitric acid would create strontium nitrate, sulfuric acid strontium sulfate etc.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If Vinegar is strong enough to get the reaction with strontium carbonate going you'll immediately see foaming as you add the vinegar to the strontium carbonate and the carbon dioxide and water vapor bubble off. It should look just it does when you add vinegar to baking soda.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If vinegar is not strong enough to start the chemical reaction on its own, you'll need to heat the mixture over a stove, use a stronger concentration of acetic acid, or more realistically use a stronger acid like hydrochloric acid (called <strong>Muriatic Acid</strong> at a pool supply store) packing enough energy to break off the CO3 as CO2 and water vapor.</p>
<p></p>
<p>As it sounds like you're new to chemical reactions, always add a strong acid or strong base to the chemical to be added. <strong>Never add the chemical to be reacted, in this case strontium nitrate to the strong acid or strong base</strong>. This could generate too much heat in that localized area causing the acid or base to boil and splash back at you. Always wear safety glass or goggles. I just picked up 8 of them from Amazon for $2 each for studio members using our new glass saw and glass grinder.</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>Stuff is real cheap on Amazon as they've recently relaxed the requirements for direct ship from China. Rather than buy a Bohl glass circle cutter for $85 I purchased a nearly identical Chinese version for $5.90, which included the shipping cost from <span class="_Tgc">Shenzhen?</span>! Shenzhen is on the border with Hong Kong and is the official exit point for most goods produced </em>through-out China, on their way to the rest of the world.<br/></p>
<p></p>
<p>From memory I think Catherine Rehbein fires her SCM to cone 8, but you'd have to confirm this with her.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_03zxmpq9ivdbr" class="fn url">Robert Coyle</a></p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I'm not sure what people are looking for here. both Strontium acetate or chloride are bot very soluble in water, so they should be absorbed into the clay body and leave not much in the glaze.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a></p>
<div class="xg_user_generated">I am new to this stuff haven't done chemistry in 15 years. I did add the vinegar to the strontium carbonate and it immediately foamed up and had a reaction like you stated. I did wear a safety mask. I will probably mix up the batch of scm with the acetate tonight and spray it in a few days.</div>
<div class="xg_user_generated"></div>
<div class="xg_user_generated"></div>
</div>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a></p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Robert - In my experience Strontium Carbonate doesn't incorporate well into glazes at Cone 6.</p>
<p></p>
<p>There are special Strontium Frits available, especially used for glazes at Cone 2 and below, but these are quite costly.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm actually headed to the studio right now to try vinegar and HCl on strontium carbonate. As for migrating into the bisque, that has benefits as well. Just add more strontium chloride.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_0ng9vrmzioqmi" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I would definitely would like to know what Cone is required to make Strontium Crystal Magic fire like Cathy Rehbein's work. I know from experience it's obviously much hotter than Cone 6 - the same with Jen's Juicy Fruit which is a non-event at Cone 6 oxidation.</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>Especially given the fact that this is at least nominally</em> <strong>a Cone 6 website</strong>.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I found kitchen white vinegar easily bubbles off the CO2 from strontium carbonate, making it into strontium acetate which decomposes into Strontium Oxide at 459 F, much lower than Strontium Carbonate - although no one agrees on what that temperature is exactly.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm going to try this lower melting strontium in some glazes to see if they look different than the one which use strontium carbonate. The drawback is 43 grams of strontium acetate dissolve in a liter of water, so that will produce a different result as well. I different result I suspect may be quite useful based on the ceramic makers who put strontium frit into their clay bodies.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've spent a lot of time reworking alleged Cone 6 glazes so they actually fire well at Cone 6. Pete Pinnells Weathered Bronze Green was one of them. Pete says it was originally a Cone 10 glaze and one of his students found it also "worked" at Cone 6. I found "worked" was too subjective and likely the result of an inaccurate kiln temperature which had to have been hotter than the student thought.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Making Weathered Bronze Green into a true Cone 6 glaze required the addition of 20% Ferro Frit 3269. After that addition it looks as beautiful as when it's fired to Cone 10. It only stands to reason it couldn't possibly look the same after firing to Cone 6 without a change in the recipe.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_027h5unajk1ti" class="fn url">Teresa Wooden</a> </p>
<div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Hi all, been away for awhile. Some health problems and a major move has taken me out of the game for awhile. Glad to be back.</p>
<p>I fire my work according to an old firing schedule of Steven's which he gave me several years ago. Basically it fires to cone six, but with the holds and slow cooling the heatwork causes cone nine to bend. Cone six is flat. SCM and several other glazes I have work fine at that schedule, but recently I had to switch clay bodies and chose a cone six body... so I have tried to bring the actual firing temp down. I am finding that SCM and a few other glazes do not melt at the lower temp. My glazes don't look the same. I am going back to the beginning and will be testing some alterations. One thing I wonder is, since Custer Feldspar changed a couple years ago whether it may be altering the glaze. It was one reason why I had to change clay bodies. Another factor is that SCM needs to be applied very lightly...if applied thickly it looks unmelted and makes a mess. Sometimes I draw a pencil mark down the side of a pot (especially porcelain..white on white) so that I can tell when I have sprayed just enough to cover the mark. I will be sure to report back when/if we find any alternatives. Peace to all.</p>
</div>
<p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div> Strontium Carbonate and Strontium Crystal Magictag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-07-12:2103784:Topic:1353552016-07-12T18:59:14.589ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>Numerous members have used SCM and Jen's Juicy Fruit with excellent results. I believe the crystals being objected to are some kind of crystal that is growing in the melt upon cooling, not unmelted strontium poking out of the matrix. The crystals have sharp diamond reflective points which would not be present if they had been even slightly attacked by the glaze fluxes, of which there are plenty, evidenced by the fact that the glaze is very prone to running.</p>
<p>My understanding is that …</p>
<p>Numerous members have used SCM and Jen's Juicy Fruit with excellent results. I believe the crystals being objected to are some kind of crystal that is growing in the melt upon cooling, not unmelted strontium poking out of the matrix. The crystals have sharp diamond reflective points which would not be present if they had been even slightly attacked by the glaze fluxes, of which there are plenty, evidenced by the fact that the glaze is very prone to running.</p>
<p>My understanding is that <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CatherineRehbein?xg_source=activity">Catherine Rehbein</a> uses commercial glazes, not SCM,</p>
<p>I had the same kind of crystals form in pots fired to cone 9 both reduction and oxidation at the a Steven Hill workshop in 2009.</p>
<p>You can render your rough pots smooth as a baby's bottom with about ten minutes of sanding with 200 and then 400 grit carborundum wet sandpaper, but the sparkly effect will be gone. <br/> ____________________________________________________________________________</p>
<p>Comments that were previously on the group Comment Wall rather than a threaded discussion:</p>
<dl id="c_eb7" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_0ng9vrmzioqmi" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> 13 hours ago</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135173"><p>I would definitely would like to know what Cone is required to make Strontium Crystal Magic fire like Cathy Rehbein's work. I know from experience it's obviously much hotter than Cone 6 - the same with Jen's Juicy Fruit which is a non-event at Cone 6 oxidation.</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>Especially given the fact that this is at least nominally</em> <strong>a Cone 6 website</strong>.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I found kitchen white vinegar easily bubbles off the CO2 from strontium carbonate, making it into strontium acetate which decomposes into Strontium Oxide at 459 F, much lower than Strontium Carbonate - although no one agrees on what that temperature is exactly.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm going to try this lower melting strontium in some glazes to see if they look different than the one which use strontium carbonate. The drawback is 43 grams of strontium acetate dissolve in a liter of water, so that will produce a different result as well. I different result I suspect may be quite useful based on the ceramic makers who put strontium frit into their clay bodies.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've spent a lot of time reworking alleged Cone 6 glazes so they actually fire well at Cone 6. Pete Pinnells Weathered Bronze Green was one of them. Pete says it was originally a Cone 10 glaze and one of his students found it also "worked" at Cone 6. I found "worked" was too subjective and likely the result of an inaccurate kiln temperature which had to have been hotter than the student thought.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Making Weathered Bronze Green into a true Cone 6 glaze required the addition of 20% Ferro Frit 3269. After that addition it looks as beautiful as when it's fired to Cone 10. It only stands to reason it couldn't possibly look the same after firing to Cone 6 without a change in the recipe.</p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135173" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135173">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_4ed" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135258" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135258"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" title="Norm Stuart"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822443?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/><img class="dy-badge-image bottom-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824589?profile=original" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> 22 hours ago</dt>
<dt><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"> </a></dt>
<dd><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135258"><p>Robert - In my experience Strontium Carbonate doesn't incorporate well into glazes at Cone 6.</p>
<p></p>
<p>There are special Strontium Frits available, especially used for glazes at Cone 2 and below, but these are quite costly.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm actually headed to the studio right now to try vinegar and HCl on strontium carbonate. As for migrating into the bisque, that has benefits as well. Just add more strontium chloride.</p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135258" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135258">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_cb9" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135257" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135257"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" title="Joseph Fireborn"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036829366?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_1on89u0jzwpui" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> 22 hours ago</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135257">I am new to this stuff haven't done chemistry in 15 years. I did add the vinegar to the strontium carbonate and it immediately foamed up and had a reaction like you stated. I did wear a safety mask. I will probably mix up the batch of scm with the acetate tonight and spray it in a few days.</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135257" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135257">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_760" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135170" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135170"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/RobertCoyle" title="Robert Coyle"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036831781?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/><img class="dy-badge-image bottom-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824589?profile=original" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_03zxmpq9ivdbr" class="fn url">Robert Coyle</a> 23 hours ago</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135170"><p>I'm not sure what people are looking for here. both Strontium acetate or chloride are bot very soluble in water, so they should be absorbed into the clay body and leave not much in the glaze.</p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135170" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135170">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_792" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135093" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135093"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" title="Norm Stuart"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822443?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/><img class="dy-badge-image bottom-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824589?profile=original" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> 23 hours ago</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135093"><p>Acids combine with stronitum carbonate to bubble off the carbon dioxide (the carbonate). What you end up with depends on the type of acid used.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Vinegar (acetic acid) creates strontium acetate. Nitric acid would create strontium nitrate, sulfuric acid strontium sulfate etc.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If Vinegar is strong enough to get the reaction with strontium carbonate going you'll immediately see foaming as you add the vinegar to the strontium carbonate and the carbon dioxide and water vapor bubble off. It should look just it does when you add vinegar to baking soda.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If vinegar is not strong enough to start the chemical reaction on its own, you'll need to heat the mixture over a stove, use a stronger concentration of acetic acid, or more realistically use a stronger acid like hydrochloric acid (called <strong>Muriatic Acid</strong> at a pool supply store) packing enough energy to break off the CO3 as CO2 and water vapor.</p>
<p></p>
<p>As it sounds like you're new to chemical reactions, always add a strong acid or strong base to the chemical to be added. <strong>Never add the chemical to be reacted, in this case strontium nitrate to the strong acid or strong base</strong>. This could generate too much heat in that localized area causing the acid or base to boil and splash back at you. Always wear safety glass or goggles. I just picked up 8 of them from Amazon for $2 each for studio members using our new glass saw and glass grinder.</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>Stuff is real cheap on Amazon as they've recently relaxed the requirements for direct ship from China. Rather than buy a Bohl glass circle cutter for $85 I purchased a nearly identical Chinese version for $5.90, which included the shipping cost from <span class="_Tgc">Shenzhen?</span>! Shenzhen is on the border with Hong Kong and is the official exit point for most goods produced </em>through-out China, on their way to the rest of the world.</p>
</div>
</dd>
<dd><p><em><em> </em></em><span>From memory I think Catherine Rehbein fires her SCM to cone 8, but you'd have to confirm this with her.</span></p>
<dl id="c_37f" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> yesterday</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135168"><p>So soaking strontium carbonate doesn't sound that hard. Do you think it would fully absorb into the vinegar? Or do you think if I evaporated the vinegar it will return to a type of powder?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I guess I will have to test and see. Im thinking I will mix a 2 test batchs of SCM, and a control batch. I will put the stront carb into the vinegar and let it soak overnight. I will then just directly pour one into the glaze mixture and then adjust flocculation with darvans. Then I will take another vinegar batch and try to dry it out and see what happens. If I can dry it out I will run another test using that SCM batch, and I will run a control batch just to compare. I will run the test using currie grid to see if there are some interesting results that I might be missing. </p>
<p></p>
<p>It will be a few days before I can run the grid test, I grid tiles drying right now, but how long do you think I should soak the SCM? 24 hours 36 hours? 48 hours?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I have a friend who does a lot of experimental stuff with glazes I will contact him and see if he has any opinion. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Catherine Rehbein's work is really nice and colorful, and your right it is glossy and not a sandy matte look like SH's work.</p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135168" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135168">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_09d" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135038" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135038"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" title="Norm Stuart"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822443?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/><img class="dy-badge-image bottom-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824589?profile=original" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> yesterday</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135038"><p>Catherine Rehbein fires a lot of clearly glossy melted strontium crystal magic pieces, so I'd be very curious what firing she uses to achieve this.<a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CatherineRehbein">http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CatherineRehbein</a></p>
<p>Strontium oxide produces brilliant colors like lead with low thermal expansion and can be a flux above Cone 2. But Strontium Carbonate doesn't decompose until an astounding 2,721 F, a good 350 F hotter than Cone 12.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If you're interested in an experiment, before adding the strontium carbonate to the glaze, I'd first react it with an acid like vinegar or hydrochloric acid to release the carbon dioxide.</p>
<p>Strontium acetate and strontium chloride both decompose below Cone 010, but at the expense of being far more soluble than strontium carbonate. I'm curious if this would make any change in the firing behavior of SCM. It seems unlikely but potential surprises lie in wait out there.</p>
<p></p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135038" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135038">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_cf9" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder">
<dt><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135030" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135030"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" title="Joseph Fireborn"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036829366?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt" class="fn url">Joseph Fireborn</a> yesterday</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135030"><p><span>So you think I should try getting closer to cone 7? I can do a hold at cone 6 and hold for like 30mins or something and see what happens.</span></p>
</div>
<ul class="actionlinks">
<li><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="xg_sprite xg_sprite-edit" id="link_desc_2103784Comment135030" name="link_desc_2103784Comment135030">Edit</a> </li>
</ul>
</dd>
</dl>
<dl id="c_ffe" class="comment vcard xg_lightborder last-child">
<dt><a name="last_comment" id="last_comment"></a><a name="comment-2103784_Comment_135028" id="comment-2103784_Comment_135028"></a><span class="xg_avatar"><a class="fn url" href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" title="Norm Stuart"><span class="dy-avatar dy-avatar-48"><img width="48" height="48" class="photo photo" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822443?profile=RESIZE_180x180" alt=""/><img class="dy-badge-image bottom-right" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824589?profile=original" alt=""/></span></a></span>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart" class="fn url">Norm Stuart</a> yesterday</dt>
<dd><a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A135173&xg_source=msg_com_group#" class="icon delete delete_link" title="Delete Comment"><br/></a><div class="description xj_comment_editor xg_user_generated" id="desc_2103784Comment135028"><p>My impression has been SCM requires more than a Cone 6 to achieve the results I see others showing. The same too with Jen's Juicy Fruit. For me at Cone 6 both have too much unmelted materials - particularly the strontium in SCM.</p>
</div>
</dd>
</dl>
</dd>
</dl> SCM and the Companion Glazes Runtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Topic:1172632014-12-14T15:53:27.367ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>Ron Ball wrote me the following:</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi George. I am going to be putting in a load of dipped/poured and sprayed glazes on some pots. My recent venture in this area resulted in a number of pots with glazes running off onto the shelves and a lot of chipping and repairing of those shelves so I could use them again.</p>
<p>I have a copy of John Britts new book Cone 6 The Complete Guide---, and I had a chance to go over some of the firing schedules he has listed in the book. I…</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Ron Ball wrote me the following:</p>
<blockquote><p>Hi George. I am going to be putting in a load of dipped/poured and sprayed glazes on some pots. My recent venture in this area resulted in a number of pots with glazes running off onto the shelves and a lot of chipping and repairing of those shelves so I could use them again.</p>
<p>I have a copy of John Britts new book Cone 6 The Complete Guide---, and I had a chance to go over some of the firing schedules he has listed in the book. I emailed John on his thoughts and he indicated that he has had some problems with Stephen Hills schedule.</p>
<p>You have done a lot of spraying and I am not sure what schedule you use. I don't single fire our work. I have been using a schedule that our guild was using and that is when I ran into the trouble with this mixture of sprayed and dipped/poured pots.</p>
<p>I am not sure if a fastfire/slow cool is the best approach do you have any comments.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes, some of the glazes are quite runny and putting them into general use in a group studio without adequate training would be a huge mistake. Strontium Crystal Magic is fairly stable when thin to medium. "Thin" means just barely concealing the clay body's surface texture after firing. "Medium" means a slight thickening, but no movement at the bottom edge of the glaze on a vertical surface after firing. </p>
<p>The water color blue and green are very runny and more so on top of SCM. Try to keep on the upper part of pieces, or above glaze stopping contours like horizontal slip trails, sprigs, or incised decorations. Use very thinly to change the color of SCM, and a little thicker to move and pool.</p>
<p>Fake ash glazes want to run and rivulet. You defeat their purpose if you don't put them on thick enough for this trait to develop. Use them at the top 1/3 of pots liberally, and conservatively near the bottom.</p>
<p>Mixing, layering, and movement are the characteristics of these glazes that give them their drama. Control comes with experience and paying attention. I still have occasional runoffs, and pots where I didn't get adequate coverage near the foot.</p>
<p>A one hour hold at the top of the firing cycle will magnify errors of glazes being too thick. It will also start the growth of crystals, and allow mixing effects to come out that give these glaze combinations the look of reduction firing. The hold on the cooling cycle around 1700 deg F really shouldn't have much effect on running, as the glazes should be stiffening. The purpose here is again crystallization and color development particularly of iron.</p>
<p>Scraping kiln shelves is part of the learning process. If you never have to do this, you are not pushing your glaze education envelope.</p>
<p></p> Brown Clay with Hill Glazes/Firingtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-01-09:2103784:Topic:954112014-01-09T23:04:39.302ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
My pottery goal for this year is to learn to create Hill-type glazes and successfully fire them. I am just getting started with this project. I would prefer to use brown stoneware, probably starting with Highwater Brownstone. I also plan to try firing the glazes I already have with Hill's firing schedule and then make his strontium glazes when the weather warms up, simply because I prefer to mix glazes outside. I don't really like glossy glazes and want to see what the ones I have do in his…
My pottery goal for this year is to learn to create Hill-type glazes and successfully fire them. I am just getting started with this project. I would prefer to use brown stoneware, probably starting with Highwater Brownstone. I also plan to try firing the glazes I already have with Hill's firing schedule and then make his strontium glazes when the weather warms up, simply because I prefer to mix glazes outside. I don't really like glossy glazes and want to see what the ones I have do in his firing.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know of any potential problems with the brown clay or firing schedule? Pinholes and craterstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-12-02:2103784:Topic:917622013-12-02T01:31:56.026ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
I sent an email out to all group members. I should have just started this thread.<br />
<br />
I am using Laguna 607 cone 6 stoneware.<br />
I am getting pinholes and craters on about 1/3 to 1/2 of my pieces.<br />
I contacted Stephen Hill via email to ask him about this. He suggested that I just switch to porcelain as it is the gasses from the impure elements in stoneware body.<br />
I have adjusted my bisque schedule to slow down to 100'/hr between 1100' and 1700' ( the temp range where those organic gasses burn off). I…
I sent an email out to all group members. I should have just started this thread.<br />
<br />
I am using Laguna 607 cone 6 stoneware.<br />
I am getting pinholes and craters on about 1/3 to 1/2 of my pieces.<br />
I contacted Stephen Hill via email to ask him about this. He suggested that I just switch to porcelain as it is the gasses from the impure elements in stoneware body.<br />
I have adjusted my bisque schedule to slow down to 100'/hr between 1100' and 1700' ( the temp range where those organic gasses burn off). I am still getting the pinholes and craters.<br />
Pinholes and craters supposedly come from<br />
1. Gassing out during glaze firing.<br />
2. Not enough ventilation and oxygen during bisque firing.<br />
3. Possible glaze boiling during glaze firing.<br />
<br />
Is anyone else experiencing this horrible problem?<br />
Has anyone found a solution?<br />
Is anyone using a cone 6 Stoneware and SH glazes and NOT getting pinholes and craters?<br />
It is suggested to remove all spy hole plugs until pots become glowing red to increase oxygen flow. I have an environment on my Skutt and assumed that it would provide sufficient ventilation and fresh oxygen.<br />
Thanks for your input. What Are the Best White Stoneware and Porcelain Bodies for Single Firing with the SH palette?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-10-26:2103784:Topic:904332013-10-26T22:46:00.939ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>I have been using Laguna B-mix5 since 2009 with minimal problems. My Michigan supplier appears to have ceased operations. Does anyone know what body Steven is currently using after attending one of his 2013 workshops. I heard at one point he had switched to a Standard porcelain or 182 which is listed as:</p>
<p><font color="#4D472B" face="Century Gothic"><b><span class="style4"><span class="style5">182 WHITE STONEWARE BODY (Cone 6-10)…</span></span></b></font></p>
<p></p>
<p>I have been using Laguna B-mix5 since 2009 with minimal problems. My Michigan supplier appears to have ceased operations. Does anyone know what body Steven is currently using after attending one of his 2013 workshops. I heard at one point he had switched to a Standard porcelain or 182 which is listed as:</p>
<p><font face="Century Gothic" color="#4D472B"><b><span class="style4"><span class="style5">182 WHITE STONEWARE BODY (Cone 6-10)</span></span></b></font></p>
<p><font class="style3"><span class="style6">Near white plastic stoneware body. Good for use with bright glazes. Available with and without fine grog. </span></font><span class="style6"><strong><br/> Shrinkage: 11% at C/8, 12% at C/10.<br/> Absorption: 3% at C/8, 2.1% at C/10. </strong></span></p>
<p>As you can see this clay is at the bottom of its range at cone 6 and has high absorption even at cone 8, so I'm thinking it might not be a terrific cone 6 body.</p>
<p>I would use one of the Standard Ceramic Supply bodies if possible, as there is a distributor within 50 miles of me. We also have Runyan which is a local manufacturer with a very sophisticated clay compounding facility. But they don't seem to have knowledge of what constitutes a good single firing body.</p>
<p></p> Looking for glossy results with SHtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-09-08:2103784:Topic:882562013-09-08T20:59:12.047ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
Hello all,<br />
<br />
I have gotten good results with the standard Steven Hill recipes (I own the DVD).<br />
I am looking to find out if it is possible to spray a clear gloss glaze over the standard SH glazes in order to get some glossy areas?<br />
Has anyone tried this, and if so success?<br />
I have used a glossy white glaze as my liner glaze and along the rim of some pieces the gloss white ran down outside of my piece and created a glossy blend with the SH glazes.<br />
I plan on doing some tests, just thought I would ask…
Hello all,<br />
<br />
I have gotten good results with the standard Steven Hill recipes (I own the DVD).<br />
I am looking to find out if it is possible to spray a clear gloss glaze over the standard SH glazes in order to get some glossy areas?<br />
Has anyone tried this, and if so success?<br />
I have used a glossy white glaze as my liner glaze and along the rim of some pieces the gloss white ran down outside of my piece and created a glossy blend with the SH glazes.<br />
I plan on doing some tests, just thought I would ask first.<br />
Any advice or replies are much appreciated. Steven Hill Surface Technique DVD Available at CeramicArtsDailytag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-11-30:2103784:Topic:721042012-11-30T22:06:16.879ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>You can purchase the dvd or download here:</p>
<p><a href="http://http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/the-surface-techniques-of-steven-hill/" target="_blank">http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/the-surface-techniques-of-steven-hill/</a></p>
<p>You can purchase the dvd or download here:</p>
<p><a href="http://http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/the-surface-techniques-of-steven-hill/" target="_blank">http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/the-surface-techniques-of-steven-hill/</a></p> Does anyone have success dipping the SH Glazes rather than spraying??tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-01-13:2103784:Topic:525462012-01-13T20:43:26.992ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>It appears most of the folks on this forum are spraying Steven's glazes as he recommends. Has anyone dipped the glazes instead? If so, how are the result? Any suggestions? What to avoid? Etc?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Oh, for a spray booth..........sigh.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Belinda</p>
<p>It appears most of the folks on this forum are spraying Steven's glazes as he recommends. Has anyone dipped the glazes instead? If so, how are the result? Any suggestions? What to avoid? Etc?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Oh, for a spray booth..........sigh.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Belinda</p> The Companion Glazes - Modifiers and Complements to SCMtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2011-07-09:2103784:Topic:342472011-07-09T19:18:33.795ZBelinda Willishttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BelindaWillis438
<p>These are the glazes that Steven introduced us to for creating the layered effects for which he is renown. This is the place to post modifications for these glazes, and other glazes that you have found to work well with SCM and SCM for orange.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036819181?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036819181?profile=original" width="494"></img></a> <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824505?profile=original" target="_self"></a></p>
<p> …</p>
<p></p>
<p>These are the glazes that Steven introduced us to for creating the layered effects for which he is renown. This is the place to post modifications for these glazes, and other glazes that you have found to work well with SCM and SCM for orange.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036819181?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="494" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036819181?profile=original"/></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824505?profile=original"></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824505?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="654" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036824505?profile=original"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036843674?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="701" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036843674?profile=original"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036843938?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="481" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036843938?profile=original"/></a></p>
<p>2-D blue sprayed very thinly over the other layered glazes can produce a "snowflake effect.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036844679?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="600" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036844679?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></a></p>
<p><strong><span class="font-size-3"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span class="font-size-2">And following are companion glazes that Steven has used on his pots</span></span>.</span></strong></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036857305?profile=original"></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036857305?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="600" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036857305?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036860635?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="485" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036860635?profile=original"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036862288?profile=original"><img class="align-full" width="483" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036862288?profile=original"/></a></p>
<p> </p>