Fire It Once Discussions - Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-29T10:46:33Zhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/group/fireitonce/forum?feed=yes&xn_auth=noSurvey: Once Fired Ceramicstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-03-01:2103784:Topic:1198602015-03-01T10:17:35.729ZMargaret Davieshttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/MargaretDavies
<p>Hi There,</p>
<p>I'm a mature student doing an MA in Ceramics at UCLAN Preston UK. I'm interested in single fired ceramics and have devised a very simple survey and would like to ask you if there is any way you could help me get it publicised. It is available at my developing Blog, that I have to do for my course. Or I could send it to you and possibly you could put a link to it. I am more than happy to share my results with you.</p>
<p>My survey is at "Once fired Ceramics" at…</p>
<p>Hi There,</p>
<p>I'm a mature student doing an MA in Ceramics at UCLAN Preston UK. I'm interested in single fired ceramics and have devised a very simple survey and would like to ask you if there is any way you could help me get it publicised. It is available at my developing Blog, that I have to do for my course. Or I could send it to you and possibly you could put a link to it. I am more than happy to share my results with you.</p>
<p>My survey is at "Once fired Ceramics" at <a href="https://mrsmberry.wordpress.com/">https://mrsmberry.wordpress.com/</a></p>
<p>I hope that this is acceptable to you.</p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>Margaret Davies</p>
<p></p> Once firing - underglaze decoration with cleartag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-11-04:2103784:Topic:909072013-11-04T22:44:32.596ZKarenBhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/KarenB
<p><br/>Hello All, <br/><br/>I am just venturing into Once Firing and my pieces are stoneware with underglaze and I'd welcome any advice/insight about covering the underglaze with Cone 6 (zinc free) clear.<br/><br/>Any problems with once firing this combo?<br/>Any adjustments to firing schedule recommended?<br/><br/>Thanks!<br/><br/>KarenB</p>
<p><br/>Hello All, <br/><br/>I am just venturing into Once Firing and my pieces are stoneware with underglaze and I'd welcome any advice/insight about covering the underglaze with Cone 6 (zinc free) clear.<br/><br/>Any problems with once firing this combo?<br/>Any adjustments to firing schedule recommended?<br/><br/>Thanks!<br/><br/>KarenB</p> Modifying a commercial glaze?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-10-20:2103784:Topic:903142013-10-20T21:20:41.111ZElizabeth Rupperthttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ElizabethRuppert
<p>Is it possible to modify a commercial cone 6 glaze so it can be single fired? I have Standard brand glazes and clay, all of it cone 6.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks :)</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Liz</p>
<p>Is it possible to modify a commercial cone 6 glaze so it can be single fired? I have Standard brand glazes and clay, all of it cone 6.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks :)</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Liz</p> Single Fire Questiontag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-09-28:2103784:Topic:894062013-09-28T22:08:59.803ZKarlan Emeryhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/KarlanEmery
I am currently involved in sharing Steven Hill's cone 6 single fire method with my fellow students at a community college. Last semester, I followed all of Hill's glaze recipes and firing schedule and was thrilled when the culmination of my efforts resulted in some beautiful finished work. This semester right off the bat we encountered a firing issue....after 23 hours of firing (again, using Hill's single fire schedule) we had ramped to only 2016 degrees f. One of the resident instructors…
I am currently involved in sharing Steven Hill's cone 6 single fire method with my fellow students at a community college. Last semester, I followed all of Hill's glaze recipes and firing schedule and was thrilled when the culmination of my efforts resulted in some beautiful finished work. This semester right off the bat we encountered a firing issue....after 23 hours of firing (again, using Hill's single fire schedule) we had ramped to only 2016 degrees f. One of the resident instructors modified the schedule at segment 3, which is an increase from 500 degrees to 2100 degrees at 400 degrees per hour. He changed the temp increase to 270 degrees per hour and started the firing again. His comment was that the 400 degree increase was too hard on the elements. By the by, his attempt also resulted in a failed firing. My question is has anyone who is or has used Hill's single fire schedule encountered any similar problems? I think the kiln is the problem and that it is not necessary to modify the firing schedule as I have successfully fired in this same kiln with Hill's Surface Techniques schedule. Any feedback is appreciated. Glaze Application for Single Firingtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2011-04-13:2103784:Topic:229502011-04-13T22:01:23.740ZGeorge Lewterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/GeorgeLewter
<p>For just about any question in ceramics there are two good basic answers. </p>
<ol>
<li>"It depends."</li>
<li>"Try it!"</li>
</ol>
<p>How to glaze ware for single firing is one of those questions that seem to lack cut and dried answers. Simon Leach glazes his pots by dipping and pouring in a short time frame on pots about leather hard.</p>
<p>Steven Hill pours interiors and sprays the exteriors and layers without a lot of concern for time between coats, but he starts with near bone dry…</p>
<p>For just about any question in ceramics there are two good basic answers. </p>
<ol>
<li>"It depends."</li>
<li>"Try it!"</li>
</ol>
<p>How to glaze ware for single firing is one of those questions that seem to lack cut and dried answers. Simon Leach glazes his pots by dipping and pouring in a short time frame on pots about leather hard.</p>
<p>Steven Hill pours interiors and sprays the exteriors and layers without a lot of concern for time between coats, but he starts with near bone dry pots.</p>
<p>The timing and techniques are going to be very dependent on the clay body, the glaze composition and viscosity, and the method of application to name a few variables.</p>
<p>A number of authorities insist that a single fire glaze have a high clay content to allow it to shrink like the clay body it is applied to.</p>
<p><strong><span class="font-size-3">Please use this forum to exchange info on how you glaze your work for single firing.</span></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p>This forum is in response to a Kathy Ransom query</p>
<p>Comment by <a href="http://cone6pots.ning.com/xn/detail/u_2dacr9x26erce" class="fn url">Kathy Ransom</a> 4/13/2011</p>
<p>I just watched the Simon Leach video about using wax resists and didn't realize he does single firing. He dipped a bowl, then poured glaze into it and said that both inside and outside need to be done at the same time. Revelation!! I've been carefully brushing my glaze on and letting it dry before carefully brushing more on, thinking that this would keep the piece from absorbing too much moisture. I've had a few pieces just come apart though as they dried. Is his method a solution to this and has anyone else tried dipping and pouring in one go and had success doing it this way?</p> Why Single Fire Instead of Bisquing & Then Glaze Firing?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2010-12-11:2103784:Topic:88632010-12-11T19:05:36.000ZGeorge Lewterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/GeorgeLewter
<table>
<tbody><tr><td> </td>
</tr>
<tr><td bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><p> </p>
<h2>Why Single Fire?</h2>
<ul>
<li><div>Have you ever been caught up in a rush of creative energy while shaping a piece, and lost that feeling while you waited for the piece to dry and then be bisque fired?</div>
</li>
<li><div>When you look at the bisqued piece, does in seem lifeless and divorced from when you were shaping it? Does it feel like glazing is some totally separate process that is very<br></br>difficult to unify…</div>
</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table>
<tbody><tr><td> </td>
</tr>
<tr><td bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><p> </p>
<h2>Why Single Fire?</h2>
<ul>
<li><div>Have you ever been caught up in a rush of creative energy while shaping a piece, and lost that feeling while you waited for the piece to dry and then be bisque fired?</div>
</li>
<li><div>When you look at the bisqued piece, does in seem lifeless and divorced from when you were shaping it? Does it feel like glazing is some totally separate process that is very<br/>difficult to unify with the forming process?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Do you hate the way bisqueware sucks the liquid out of your glazes, making runs and drips twice as thick as the rest of the glaze coating? And when you do brushwork does this sucking property thwart your attempts at carefully controlled strokes?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Do your high clay content glazes shrink and crack on bisqueware and then crawl away from the cracks in the firing?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Do you love the feel and control of painting with acrylics or oils where your paint glides off the brush and mixes predictably with previous strokes?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Would you like to compress your production cycle into half your usual time?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Would you like to use about a third less energy in firing your kiln?</div>
</li>
<li><div>Would you like to cut your kiln loading and unloading in half, while still producing the same amount of finished work?</div>
</li>
</ul>
<h2>The more of those questions to which you answered "Yes", the more reasons for you to look into single firing.</h2>
<p> If we can get a committed group together to study the single fire process somewhat systematically, we will likely progress much faster than if we work individually in isolation. With a dedicated group we would also have a better chance of enlisting the aid of one or more established experts.</p>
<ul>
<li>For a preview of why you might want to do something so radical, see <a href="%3Cbr"></a>"http://www.centerstreetclay.com/Site/ElectricGlazeFiring_4.html">the electric glaze firing page at centerstreetclay.com Steven Hill's Website. He has been single firing for some thirty years.</li>
<li>Basically, single firing involves glazing your pieces when they are in the leather hard to bone dry stage. You need to use high clay content glazes that will shrink similarly to the clay body to which they are applied as both the body and glaze dry out. Firing has to be very slow in the initial phases to allow moisture to escape slowly from the body and through the glaze without separating the two. After the unbound water and the water of crystalization are driven off, the rest of the firing cycle can proceed pretty normally for the glaze effects you are trying to achieve.</li>
<li>Single firing is not some Johnnie-Come-Lately, hare-brained invention. It has been used commercially for many years, glazed bricks, roof, floor, and wall tiles, toilets, and ceramic plumbing fixtures are all typically single fired.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Here are some links to photographs of single fired pottery.</h2>
<ul>
<li>These are gorgeous pots by <a href="http://gertrudegrahamsmith.com/GertrudeGrahamSmithPottery/Gallery.html">Gertrude Graham Smith</a>. They were salt fired to cone 10, so we won't be able to duplicate this look in our cone 6 oxidation firing. This is just a sampling of possibilities.</li>
<li>I received an email from <a href="http://westfarmarts.com/ceramics/singlefire.html">Ellen Fisher</a> as to her firing range, and she's doing low fire terra cotta single firing with commercial low-fire glazes. So the technique is valid across all clay firing temperatures.</li>
</ul>
<h2>If you are ready to dive in then you'll need some techniques. You won't be able to use those glazing tongs on leather hard clay or on greenware.</h2>
<ul>
<li>Richard Aerni had an article on single firing in the Dec 94 issue of Ceramics Monthly which you can read at his <a href="%3Cbr"></a>"http://www.richardaerni.com/cm94.html">Website. He's talking about ash glazes reduction fired to cone 10, but his discussion of glaze mixing, combinations, and spray application apply equally to our work at cone 6 in oxidation. </li>
<li style="list-style: none;"><br/><h3>An Obvious Combination for Single Firing</h3>
<p>would be to paint a leatherhard piece with colored slips, and then glaze it with a suitable clear single fire glaze. I haven't found a lot of ^6 raw glazes, but here are a couple quoted from the clayart listserve.</p>
<blockquote><h4>Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on fri 10 mar 00</h4>
I have developed a once fire cone 6 glaze from the basic Leach cone<br/>10 - 11 glaze.
<p>Cone 6 Based on Leach Clear/Transparent Oxidised <br/>Potash Feldspar 40<br/>Flint (Quartz) 25<br/>Whiting (CaCo3) 20<br/>China Clay 12.5<br/>This gives a really good shiny surface and can be quite thick and<br/>does not run. You could add 2.5 of Bentonite to make it up to<br/>unity.<br/><br/>Cone 6 Raw or Once Fired Glaze. This glaze can be painted on very<br/>easily.<br/>Potash Feldspar 38<br/>Flint (Quartz) 20<br/>Whiting (Chalk) 32<br/>Ball Clay 10<br/>Bentonite 2<br/>This glaze acts in similar manner to the first. Can be applied<br/>thick, takes oxides well, very stable over a wide range, does not<br/>run. If this one works for you let me know. It really is a<br/>stallwart for me.If you give it a really good cone 6 -7 then it<br/>will pool nicely. Happy potting Marek <a href="%3Cbr"></a>"http://www.moley.uk.com"><a href="http://www.moley.uk.com">http://www.moley.uk.com</a></p>
</blockquote>
</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
<tr><td> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table> Best Clays to Use for Single Firingtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2010-11-14:2103784:Topic:82562010-11-14T16:20:48.000ZGeorge Lewterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/GeorgeLewter
<p> While many clays may be used for raw glazing and single firing, some are bound to be better than others at taking the shock of getting a bath of glaze at the leather hard or bone dry stage. Steven Hill formerly used B-mix 10, but felt he was getting too much bloating with it. He used one of Standard Ceramic Supply's porcelains for a while, and is reportedly now using Tom Coleman porcelain which is made by Aardvark Clay.</p>
<p>This is the place to report your results with various clays…</p>
<p> While many clays may be used for raw glazing and single firing, some are bound to be better than others at taking the shock of getting a bath of glaze at the leather hard or bone dry stage. Steven Hill formerly used B-mix 10, but felt he was getting too much bloating with it. He used one of Standard Ceramic Supply's porcelains for a while, and is reportedly now using Tom Coleman porcelain which is made by Aardvark Clay.</p>
<p>This is the place to report your results with various clays and the techniques you use for raw glazing. </p>
<p> </p> Firing cycle for single firingtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2010-09-16:2103784:Topic:70292010-09-16T01:21:28.000ZBill Curillohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BillCurillo
Hi I want to give raw firing a shot, cone 6 electric ( of course!) I have a digital programmer> I know the cycle is longer than a biscut firing> Can I have some help with some ideas on what type of sequence would be a good starting point. I know that one must jump into the water to learn to swim, but a little guidance to get me started would go along way. I will be glazing my pots in the bone dry stage.<br/>Thanks<br/><br/>Bill<br/>
Hi I want to give raw firing a shot, cone 6 electric ( of course!) I have a digital programmer> I know the cycle is longer than a biscut firing> Can I have some help with some ideas on what type of sequence would be a good starting point. I know that one must jump into the water to learn to swim, but a little guidance to get me started would go along way. I will be glazing my pots in the bone dry stage.<br/>Thanks<br/><br/>Bill<br/> Let's Get Started with Single Firingtag:cone6pots.ning.com,2009-09-16:2103784:Topic:23082009-09-16T02:02:49.000ZGeorge Lewterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/GeorgeLewter
So, is anyone ready to dive into single firing? I have some bone dry test tiles I'm going to try out with a couple of my glazes that I know shrink a lot on bisqueware. I have a Ron Roy black that I think might make a good raw glaze for dipping to glaze greenware. I'm going to make some small bowls with grippable feet, that I can hang onto when I dip them. I'll try glazing some at leather hard, some at bone dry, and on the last batch, also bone dry, I'll wax the feet and spray them. Hopefully, I…
So, is anyone ready to dive into single firing? I have some bone dry test tiles I'm going to try out with a couple of my glazes that I know shrink a lot on bisqueware. I have a Ron Roy black that I think might make a good raw glaze for dipping to glaze greenware. I'm going to make some small bowls with grippable feet, that I can hang onto when I dip them. I'll try glazing some at leather hard, some at bone dry, and on the last batch, also bone dry, I'll wax the feet and spray them. Hopefully, I can have them done in a week. We learned that waxing the feet is pretty necessary when spraying greenware. The glaze gets under the pot, and if you haven't waxed, when you wipe off the excess glaze, you'll also be wiping away the clay!