Potters & Sculptors - Making Rock from Mud
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According to the firing schedule published in Ceramic Arts Daily - Feb 2012, the heating up and hold at the high end should be over in 13 hours or less. (With Ramp 3 at 400/hour)
The free and controlled cooling with a hold at 1600 to the Kiln Off at 1500 degrees F should take less than 6 hours.
The total time from Kiln On to Kiln Off should be less than 19 hours.
KILN ON
Ramp 1 - 200 deg/hr - Room Temp to 220 <1 hr
Hold 1 @ 220 - <= 3 hrs
Ramp 2 - 100 deg/hr from 220 to 500 <3 hrs
Ramp 3 - 400 deg/hr from 500 to 2100 = 4 hrs
Ramp 4 100 deg/hr from 2100 to 2175 <1 hr
Hold 4 @ 2175 = 1 hr
Ramp 5 Fast cool to 1700 (assume 500 deg/hr) <1 hr
Ramp 6 cool at 100 deg/hr to 1600 = 1 hr
Hold 6 @ 1600 <= 1 hr
Ramp 7 cool at 100 deg/hr to 1500 degrees = 1 hr
KILN OFF
My kiln is too under powered to rise 400 degrees per hour at the top of the heating curve. It will only go up a couple of hundred per hour above about 1800.
I am surprised (more like a bit shocked) to see 400/per hour from 500 to 2100.
1. Cristobalite transition at 439 degrees F (226 degrees C) Quartz inversion at 1063 degrees F (573 degrees C), require a slow ramp. Reforming of the quartz structure takes place at these points and if it is forced, the vitrified clay will have faults--commonly dunting (sharp cracks). I've always passed through the first at 100/hour and the second at no more than 150/hour.
2. Carbon coring: if you're passing that quickly through burnout stage (1200° F - 1400° F), it's likely (especially with red/brown/black clays) you've not outgassed all of your clay's carbon. It makes for a brittle black glass-like core that has very low strength/is easily broken, pinholing in the glaze. You may never see this if you don't break open a test piece, but the wear will not be durable and the fault will eventually reveal itself). Alternative, you get bloating. I wouldn't go faster than 250/hour.
This first stage of single firing is a *bisque firing* -- after you've passed it, glaze firing temps are ok-- usually 300/per hour.
Victoria raises Interesting points.
Steven is often in workshop mode where he throws pots one day, quick dries, and glazes and fires them the next day. Perhaps his methods might not produce the highest possible durability, but the beauty of his work is undeniable.
We have other discussions of firing schedules going such as:
http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/sahillproject/forum/topics/cone-6-f...
http://cone6pots.ning.com/group/fireitonce/forum/topics/firing-cycl...
Yes, quartz inversion is cumulative; good point. And, using a porcelain does reduce the time needed for burnout. (If his work is thin-walled, this further reduces burnout time.)
Thanks for more info on his process-- I do think his methods are risky--for good/predictable outcome--in the school environment, where so many variables are introduced that are otherwise highly controlled in an individual setting (clay purity, thickness, load size, oxygen atmosphere, kiln element wear/damage). Also, there should be more info going out to students regarding the difference between decorative and functional ware, especially if they plan on selling their work. There is an awful lot of potential liability in the faults that may show themselves at a later date (consider families with children), as well as "false advertising" issues arising from claims around cone (an accurate cone is a vouch for low porosity and impermeability/safety of the glaze)-- I see too many kiln owners confusing pyrometer reading with cone/not using witness cones...which means their claim to "Cone X" is unsupportable.
Yes, students need to learn about quartz inversion and realize that single firing is a technique with its own properties.
My kiln too needs a slower ramping after the 1750f mark.
But,,,I have learned from the digital fire folks that after hitting the target temp and a 15 min hold, dropping 100 degrees and holding 20 min will vitrify a clay to a much more mature state and smooth out glazes, pinholes and the like, remarkably. This practice has reduced worries about getting that last cone to bend properly.
Low cost flat lapping disc can be used on you potters wheel if you, drill bat pin holes in it, and provide a trickle of water to cool it. At amazon.com, 120 grit for aggressive material removal. Click the image to purchase
Members have had great things to say about John Britt's new book, Mid-Range Glazes. Click the image to buy from Amazon.com
Purchase Glazes Cone 6 by Michael Bailey, The Potters Book of Glaze Recipes by Emmanuel Cooper, or Making Marks by Robin Hopper, all available at amazon.com. Mastering Cone 6 Glazes by John Hesselberth & Ron Roy is now out of print.
Harbor Freight is a great place to find unbeatable prices for better HVLP spray guns with stainless steel parts and serviceable economy models, as well as detail guns, all tested by our members for spraying glazes, as well as compressors to power the guns. As yet no one has tested and commented on the remarkably inexpensive air brushes at harbor freight.
The critter siphon gun is a spray alternative that is well liked by some of our members, and is available at amazon.
Amazon is also a competitive source for photo light tents for shooting professional quality pictures of your work. They also have the EZ Cube brand favored by several of our members. You might also want to purchase the book Photographing Arts, Crafts and Collectibles . . .
If you are up to creating videos of your work or techniques you might want to invest in a flip video camera
Following are a few scales useful for potters. Ohaus Triple Pro Mechanical Triple Beam Balance, 2610g x 0.1g, with Tare $169.00
And finally a low cost clone of the OHaus. The Adam Equipment TBB2610T Triple Beam Mechanical Balance With Tare Beam $99.62
ebay is a great alternative for many tools and the equipment used in the ceramics studio - kilns, wheels, extruders, slab rollers are often listed there both new and used.
If you just want to spout off, it is best accomplished as a blog posting. If you want to get more guidance and ideas from other members, ask a question as a new discussion topic. In the upper right corner of the lists for both types of posting, you will find an "+Add " button. Clicking it will open an editor where you create your posting. 4/16/2014
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