SCM and the Companion Glazes Run - Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-28T08:49:26Zhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/topics/scm-and-the-companion-glazes-run?groupUrl=sahillproject&commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A117956&groupId=2103784%3AGroup%3A2269&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHi Chris, I use the clay coo…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-02-02:2103784:Comment:1189942015-02-02T22:48:07.366ZCharna Schwartzhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/CharnaSchwartz
<p><br></br> Hi Chris, I use the clay cookies under all my pots and I brush on a thin layer of kiln wash /water onto the cookie, which has helped if I have a glaze run. Sometimes the piece will pop off the cookie.. Practice practice practice has increased my % of successes.<br></br> <cite>Chris Beloni said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/topics/scm-and-the-companion-glazes-run?groupUrl=sahillproject&#2103784Comment117324"><div><div class="xg_user_generated">In his…</div>
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<p><br/> Hi Chris, I use the clay cookies under all my pots and I brush on a thin layer of kiln wash /water onto the cookie, which has helped if I have a glaze run. Sometimes the piece will pop off the cookie.. Practice practice practice has increased my % of successes.<br/> <cite>Chris Beloni said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/topics/scm-and-the-companion-glazes-run?groupUrl=sahillproject&#2103784Comment117324"><div><div class="xg_user_generated">In his workshops, Steven recommends using ceramic fiber paper or a clay cookie under work to limit amount of shelf grinding.</div>
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</blockquote> I have a very precise formula…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-01-14:2103784:Comment:1179612015-01-14T03:06:02.052ZDawn Atkinhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DawnAtkin
<p>I have a very precise formula: I grab whatever scoop is handy and put some in a recycled cottage cheese container of diluted liquid wax. (I brush, but I can't image brush vs spounge matters.) Hmmmm, if I need to put real numbers to it, I would say a tablespoon of alumina to a cup of diluted liquid wax.</p>
<p>By the way, if you use underglazes or stains on the foot of your clay, the alumina can cause white stains. Give it a test before using on your masterpiece. : )</p>
<p>I have a very precise formula: I grab whatever scoop is handy and put some in a recycled cottage cheese container of diluted liquid wax. (I brush, but I can't image brush vs spounge matters.) Hmmmm, if I need to put real numbers to it, I would say a tablespoon of alumina to a cup of diluted liquid wax.</p>
<p>By the way, if you use underglazes or stains on the foot of your clay, the alumina can cause white stains. Give it a test before using on your masterpiece. : )</p> Thanks Dawn for the tip, I wi…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-01-14:2103784:Comment:1179312015-01-14T00:11:02.915ZDenise Rainvillehttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DeniseRainville
<p>Thanks Dawn for the tip, I will certainly try this. I purchase liquid wax, from a pottery supplier, that I dilute and apply with a sponge. Could you tell me how much alumina should be mixed in the wax?</p>
<p>Thanks Dawn for the tip, I will certainly try this. I purchase liquid wax, from a pottery supplier, that I dilute and apply with a sponge. Could you tell me how much alumina should be mixed in the wax?</p> I hate, hate, hate cleaning s…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-01-13:2103784:Comment:1179562015-01-13T15:08:10.117ZDawn Atkinhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DawnAtkin
<p>I hate, hate, hate cleaning shelves, but I love runny glazes, so here is a tip I learned form an elementary teacher and have incorporated into my crystalline glaze world: Roll some grogged clay (long beach or death valley - something that matches your clay color) as thin as possible - so thin that it is hard to manage. Cut into shapes that fit below your pot and will catch drips/runs. I call these "chips." Because they are so thin, they don't need to be bisqued to use. Just use them as…</p>
<p>I hate, hate, hate cleaning shelves, but I love runny glazes, so here is a tip I learned form an elementary teacher and have incorporated into my crystalline glaze world: Roll some grogged clay (long beach or death valley - something that matches your clay color) as thin as possible - so thin that it is hard to manage. Cut into shapes that fit below your pot and will catch drips/runs. I call these "chips." Because they are so thin, they don't need to be bisqued to use. Just use them as greenware and re-use if they don't get dripped on. If your glaze runs, it will stick your pot to the chip, but leave a pristine shelf. The chip is such thin clay it is easy to break off 99% of it and then grind off the rest along with the glaze from bottom of the pot. It is the almost free version of ceramic fiber paper.</p>
<p>note: I do use wax with alumina on the bottom of my pots to help the pot and chip move over one another at different shrinkage rates.</p> In his workshops, Steven reco…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-29:2103784:Comment:1173242014-12-29T18:15:04.276ZChris Belonihttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ChrisBeloni
In his workshops, Steven recommends using ceramic fiber paper or a clay cookie under work to limit amount of shelf grinding.
In his workshops, Steven recommends using ceramic fiber paper or a clay cookie under work to limit amount of shelf grinding. I had never heard 1 hr hold a…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Comment:1172662014-12-14T18:27:05.208ZDenise Rainvillehttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DeniseRainville
<p>I had never heard 1 hr hold at top temperature - however it is something to think about for movement - very interesting.</p>
<p>PS: I find your comment about scrapping shelves a necessary pain? I hope to prove you wrong one day!!</p>
<p>Here is the second photo with thinner coats of SMC & watercolour green.</p>
<p>Denise</p>
<p></p>
<p>I had never heard 1 hr hold at top temperature - however it is something to think about for movement - very interesting.</p>
<p>PS: I find your comment about scrapping shelves a necessary pain? I hope to prove you wrong one day!!</p>
<p>Here is the second photo with thinner coats of SMC & watercolour green.</p>
<p>Denise</p>
<p></p> Hi,
One more thing. I only sp…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Comment:1174722014-12-14T18:23:18.636ZBrian Deanhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BrianDean
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>One more thing. I only spray my glazes using Steven Hill's spraying and layering techniques. You have much less control over application thickness if you dip or pour glazes on your pieces as thickness is proportional to the thickness and viscosity of the glaze and how long you leave it in the glaze bucket when you dip it. And it's very hard to control application thickness when pouring as well. Spraying give much more control over glaze application thickness.</p>
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<p>I use…</p>
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>One more thing. I only spray my glazes using Steven Hill's spraying and layering techniques. You have much less control over application thickness if you dip or pour glazes on your pieces as thickness is proportional to the thickness and viscosity of the glaze and how long you leave it in the glaze bucket when you dip it. And it's very hard to control application thickness when pouring as well. Spraying give much more control over glaze application thickness.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I use Mini HVLP gravity sprayers with .1 mm oriface and a compressor with regulator that I set around 20 PSI.</p>
<p>FYI</p>
<p></p> Thank you, Denise. I was thin…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Comment:1174712014-12-14T18:21:51.499ZGeorge Lewterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/GeorgeLewter
<p>Thank you, Denise. I was thinking of SH's older firing schedules from 3-4 years ago. He would rise to where cone 5 went down and hold for 1 hr, which would give cone 6 through heat work rather than temperature rise. I still do that quite often.</p>
<p>Thank you, Denise. I was thinking of SH's older firing schedules from 3-4 years ago. He would rise to where cone 5 went down and hold for 1 hr, which would give cone 6 through heat work rather than temperature rise. I still do that quite often.</p> Hi Ron & George,
Dependi…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Comment:1174692014-12-14T18:20:56.512ZDenise Rainvillehttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DeniseRainville
<p>Hi Ron & George, </p>
<p>Depending on the piece, instead of pouring/dipping I sponge/brush some of the glazes. This technique helps better control the thickness of each layer which allows me to have thicker and thinner layers of the one glaze on my work. </p>
<p>I use SH cone 6 schedule - however in the instructions I have there is no 'hold the temperature for 1 hr at the top of the firing' - it is all in raising the temperature very slowly in the last 100 degree of the cycle and…</p>
<p>Hi Ron & George, </p>
<p>Depending on the piece, instead of pouring/dipping I sponge/brush some of the glazes. This technique helps better control the thickness of each layer which allows me to have thicker and thinner layers of the one glaze on my work. </p>
<p>I use SH cone 6 schedule - however in the instructions I have there is no 'hold the temperature for 1 hr at the top of the firing' - it is all in raising the temperature very slowly in the last 100 degree of the cycle and cooling very slowly from 1700 to 1500 degree.</p>
<p>2 photos with same glaze - second photo attach to next reply</p>
<p>Denise</p> Ron,
I agree with George that…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2014-12-14:2103784:Comment:1174662014-12-14T18:15:03.130ZBrian Deanhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BrianDean
<p>Ron,</p>
<p>I agree with George that the slow cool down from 1700 F to 1500 F should not cause the running off the pot problem, I use an iron saturate glaze near the bottom of my pots to give it a warm toasty look without having to put much of the runny glazes near the bottom. Ash glazes and fake ash glazes that run by their nature producing rivulets should mostly, as George says, be located in top one third of the pot. You can have a very light application of these glazes in the middle…</p>
<p>Ron,</p>
<p>I agree with George that the slow cool down from 1700 F to 1500 F should not cause the running off the pot problem, I use an iron saturate glaze near the bottom of my pots to give it a warm toasty look without having to put much of the runny glazes near the bottom. Ash glazes and fake ash glazes that run by their nature producing rivulets should mostly, as George says, be located in top one third of the pot. You can have a very light application of these glazes in the middle third but don't overdo it, and very little on bottom third of the pot. Don't eliminate the slow cool down if you want micro crystals to form via the Strontium Chystal Magic glazes or other crystaline matt glazes. This slow cool down is intrumental in my own pots in creating interesting surfaces with good texture and visual depth. If you just fire pots to Cone 6 with a short soak at the top and turn off the kiln you will end up with much less visually interesting pots. That's mostly why historically Cone 6 electric has gotten a bad rap for producing less visually interesting pots than Cone 10 reduction or Cone 10 wood fired pots. The only Steven Hill related glazes I use are the Warm and Cool versions of Strontium Crystal Magic and the Hanna's Fake Ash glazes. Outside of that I've have spent years testing other glazes I have found using Steven Hill's techniques to create my own unique visual asthetics. FYI</p>