Bisque at Cone 10 and then Glaze at Cone 6 - Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-28T17:34:27Zhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/topics/bisque-at-cone-10-and-then-glaze-at-cone-6?commentId=2103784%3AComment%3A67769&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThis artist uses multiple fir…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:807052013-04-26T20:00:14.087ZNorm Stuarthttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart
<p>This artist uses multiple firings to good effect.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.hubertceramics.com/vases" target="_blank">http://www.hubertceramics.com/vases</a></p>
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<p>This artist uses multiple firings to good effect.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.hubertceramics.com/vases" target="_blank">http://www.hubertceramics.com/vases</a></p>
<p></p> There are those glazes that d…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:808712013-04-26T19:33:30.012ZJeff Poulterhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JeffPoulter
<p>There are those glazes that do not take kindly to re-firing. I have not been able to come up with a hard & fast rule about which ones do & don't. I did a test with 32 different iron reds & there were several of those that pitted & some were dull & some that went clear as a result of the re-fire. There were those that came out way better than before. I would have to know what was in all 32 glazes in order to make sense out of the results, & since quite a few of…</p>
<p>There are those glazes that do not take kindly to re-firing. I have not been able to come up with a hard & fast rule about which ones do & don't. I did a test with 32 different iron reds & there were several of those that pitted & some were dull & some that went clear as a result of the re-fire. There were those that came out way better than before. I would have to know what was in all 32 glazes in order to make sense out of the results, & since quite a few of them were commercial glazes, that would not be possible. If you don't like how a pot came out, you certainly don't have anything to lose by re-firing it. Now, if you kind of like it, you may be disappointed by how it comes out on the re-fire. So choose wisely! I have had a few that I wish I had left alone after the first fire. Also you have to remember that the more times you stress the clay, the greater chance you have of breaking it. If there are imperfections, they are more likely to crack &/or break the more times that you fire them. jhp</p> I had people tell me when I s…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:808702013-04-26T19:12:00.965ZKathy Ransomhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/KathyRansom655
<p>I had people tell me when I started working in clay that it was a huge mistake to refire pieces but I tried it with pieces I wasn't satisfied with and now I do it regularly. If I can't make it right, it will go into the shard pile anyway. </p>
<p>I had people tell me when I started working in clay that it was a huge mistake to refire pieces but I tried it with pieces I wasn't satisfied with and now I do it regularly. If I can't make it right, it will go into the shard pile anyway. </p> Test tiles are always a great…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:805902013-04-26T17:17:26.465ZNorm Stuarthttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart
<p>Test tiles are always a great idea. The most common change I've seen in cone 6 glazes refired to cone 06 is a reduction in their glossiness.</p>
<p>We all know some ceramicists are quite snobbish about the "wonderful" look of glazes fired to cone 10 where many of the coloring oxides partially evaporate, but that's just one look.</p>
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<p>I'm fascinated by the incredible variation in how industry makes china or dinner ware. This first method at Coors uses once-fire where the glaze is…</p>
<p>Test tiles are always a great idea. The most common change I've seen in cone 6 glazes refired to cone 06 is a reduction in their glossiness.</p>
<p>We all know some ceramicists are quite snobbish about the "wonderful" look of glazes fired to cone 10 where many of the coloring oxides partially evaporate, but that's just one look.</p>
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<p>I'm fascinated by the incredible variation in how industry makes china or dinner ware. This first method at Coors uses once-fire where the glaze is applied to the greenware, then fired once at cone 2.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfv2TPxf-gg" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfv2TPxf-gg</a></p>
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<p>This second method at Lenox fires the bisque to cone 9, polishes the bisque, then heats the fired bisque, applies glaze and refires to cone 6.</p>
<p><a href="http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/51-how-fine-china-is-made-video.htm" target="_blank">http://science.howstuffworks.com/innovation/51-how-fine-china-is-made-video.htm</a></p>
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<p>A third method bisques slip-cast porcelain at cone 06, then applies enamel and refires the ware to cone 14.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isANl_4YPUQ" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isANl_4YPUQ</a></p>
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<p>Another method, I can't find the video for at the moment, vitrifies the unglazed china at cone 12 on slump-mold plate setters, also called chums, dusted with alumina. After polishing off excess alumina, the dry glaze is sprayed onto the electrically-charged plates and fired to cone 9. Decorations are then added and refired to cone 016.</p>
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<p>This ceramic PhD discusses dealing with the problems of shrinkage, slump, and drag at very high cone firings.</p>
<p><a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Ceramic-and-Pottery-Defects-5:-Defects-Generated-During-Bisk-Firing-Operations&id=109025" target="_blank">http://ezinearticles.com/?Ceramic-and-Pottery-Defects-5:-Defects-Generated-During-Bisk-Firing-Operations&id=109025</a></p>
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<p>There's so many different ways to get something done. In southern California I've found the most arrogant and snobbish ceramic artists often don't even know how to make their own glazes. When people don't know much about a subject they sometimes develop rigid and simplistic opinions about "the right way" to do something.</p>
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<p>We used to have a book at our studio which showed the work of several ceramic artists whose work was the result of eight to fourteen firings at different kiln temperatures. They had incredible depth and complexity.</p> I was given some low fire gla…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:808652013-04-26T15:09:49.645ZKathy Ransomhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/KathyRansom655
<p>I was given some low fire glazes so I've tried firing to cone 6, often with a cone 6 liner glaze on the inside of mugs, etc, applied the glaze and refired to cone 06. This works really well but the odd cone 6 glaze has come out pitted and changed by the refire, so now I try refiring the glaze on a test tile just to make sure I like the change if there is one. </p>
<p>I was given some low fire glazes so I've tried firing to cone 6, often with a cone 6 liner glaze on the inside of mugs, etc, applied the glaze and refired to cone 06. This works really well but the odd cone 6 glaze has come out pitted and changed by the refire, so now I try refiring the glaze on a test tile just to make sure I like the change if there is one. </p> The allhandmade link seems to…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2013-04-26:2103784:Comment:808632013-04-26T04:39:45.418ZVictoria Cochranhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/Victoria
<p>The allhandmade link seems to have expired. The information is now here: <a href="http://craftedbydesign.wordpress.com/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/" target="_blank">http://craftedbydesign.wordpress.com/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/</a></p>
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<p>The allhandmade link seems to have expired. The information is now here: <a href="http://craftedbydesign.wordpress.com/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/" target="_blank">http://craftedbydesign.wordpress.com/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/</a></p>
<p></p> Thank you. Thank you very muc…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-08-03:2103784:Comment:676992012-08-03T18:12:09.209ZShine Chisholmhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShineChisholm
<p>Thank you. Thank you very much.</p>
<p>Thank you. Thank you very much.</p> Firing higher for bisque, tha…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-08-02:2103784:Comment:677692012-08-02T02:18:23.803ZVictoria Cochranhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/Victoria
<p>Firing higher for bisque, than for glaze, is more common with earthenware glazes and not typical in high fire, because of the vitrification issues already mentioned. Many who've worked in earthenware are surprised to find it's done "the opposite way" with midrange and high fire clay bodies.</p>
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<p>However, while it's unconventional that you do this for a single color application on a high fire body, in principle, your process (firing high to low) is not "wrong" -- in fact, it's been…</p>
<p>Firing higher for bisque, than for glaze, is more common with earthenware glazes and not typical in high fire, because of the vitrification issues already mentioned. Many who've worked in earthenware are surprised to find it's done "the opposite way" with midrange and high fire clay bodies.</p>
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<p>However, while it's unconventional that you do this for a single color application on a high fire body, in principle, your process (firing high to low) is not "wrong" -- in fact, it's been essential to some pretty snazzy historical pieces and modern ceramics.</p>
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<p>Highly decorative work, involving multiple firings, starts with the highest firing, and then progressively adds glazes, overglazes, enamels, china paints and/or lustres in firings that are each incrementally lower, to accommodate the lower temperature of maturity required at each step. An appropriate clay body, and glazes, will tolerate the multiple submaturity firings to successively lower cones.</p>
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<p>So yes, if you want to keep the brilliance of those lower maturing glazes, your method is spot on & some pretty smart people have gotten a lot of mileage out of the method.</p>
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<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://overglaze.demaine.org/?page_id=201" target="_blank">http://overglaze.demaine.org/?page_id=201</a></p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://allhandmade.net/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/" target="_blank">http://allhandmade.net/2010/11/22/lubna-chowdhary-ceramic-artist/</a></p> I have no plans to stop firin…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-07-18:2103784:Comment:670012012-07-18T15:08:15.508ZShine Chisholmhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShineChisholm
<p>I have no plans to stop firing my porcelain to cone 10. I am just now reaching a point where it would be beneficial to separate stoneware and porcelain firings, and then I can vary my temperatures more widely.</p>
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<p>One of the reasons that this whole issue is so surprising to me is that I am reasonably educated in the area. I am familiar with crazing and blistering-- although apparently not to the degree that I thought I was. I studied studio art, with a focus on ceramics, at the…</p>
<p>I have no plans to stop firing my porcelain to cone 10. I am just now reaching a point where it would be beneficial to separate stoneware and porcelain firings, and then I can vary my temperatures more widely.</p>
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<p>One of the reasons that this whole issue is so surprising to me is that I am reasonably educated in the area. I am familiar with crazing and blistering-- although apparently not to the degree that I thought I was. I studied studio art, with a focus on ceramics, at the University of Iowa. When I first moved to Detroit, I figured that people in this area just used a different method. After three years doing this professionally, however, I would have expected to find more people who are at least familiar with the process I was taught.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the feedback Donna and everyone else. I do appreciate it.</p> i'm not sure it's a wrong or…tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2012-07-18:2103784:Comment:671562012-07-18T14:48:01.401ZDonna Ferrarahttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/DonnaFerrara
<p>i'm not sure it's a wrong or right issue, just make sure the fit is good</p>
<p>because you are making functional ware</p>
<p>it's a complicated issue, because there are a lot of things to consider</p>
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<p>most people start with glazes that are engineered to fit their clay body, theoretically so there will be less problems. but as we all know, once you add in the application of glazes, or the firing and firing cycles into the mix you can have lots of issues. familiarize yourself…</p>
<p>i'm not sure it's a wrong or right issue, just make sure the fit is good</p>
<p>because you are making functional ware</p>
<p>it's a complicated issue, because there are a lot of things to consider</p>
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<p>most people start with glazes that are engineered to fit their clay body, theoretically so there will be less problems. but as we all know, once you add in the application of glazes, or the firing and firing cycles into the mix you can have lots of issues. familiarize yourself with what crazing, blistering etc looks like, and examine your ware....</p>
<p>you might have to add additives to your glazes to make them adhere better while glazing</p>
<p>Often after extended use, fit issues can come out....but if you're not experiencing this, then you should be ok</p>
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<p>I don't see any difference in what you are doing from the cone 6 potter who accidentally overfires a bisque, and then glazes with cone 6 glazes. or someone who refires their work. it seems to be the same thing. ; )</p>
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