Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-28T14:52:47ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudiohttps://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3618238443?profile=RESIZE_48X48https://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/topic/listForContributor?user=087c0z7snvmuy&feed=yes&xn_auth=noGelling with Gerstley - Not a fun dance routinetag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-05-04:2103784:Topic:1706772021-05-04T02:59:39.959ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>My glazes have been acting ...... peculiar , lately.</p>
<p>and I read this on Facebook. Please consider the source, so I come here for verification.</p>
<p><span>"Gerstley borate can be substituted for Frit 3134 and is half the price. Today's Gerstley borate tends to cause gelling, so about 1 drop of Darvan per 100 g recipe may be needed during mixing to get it to go through the sieve, or later after it has sat for a while and more solubles have come into…</span></p>
<p>My glazes have been acting ...... peculiar , lately.</p>
<p>and I read this on Facebook. Please consider the source, so I come here for verification.</p>
<p><span>"Gerstley borate can be substituted for Frit 3134 and is half the price. Today's Gerstley borate tends to cause gelling, so about 1 drop of Darvan per 100 g recipe may be needed during mixing to get it to go through the sieve, or later after it has sat for a while and more solubles have come into solution."</span></p>
<p><span>So is it possible that my glazes containing current gerstley are gelling up and covering poorly due to the above?</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>If so, are we to watch out for this and for the Thixotropic change? I swear my glazes used to just work.</span></p>
<p><span>Appreciate any input as glazes too thick or too thin is a problem.</span></p> Ruined cupstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-04-01:2103784:Topic:1704562021-04-01T23:51:14.066ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>Can someone please tell me why every cup on the left side of the kiln bloated and cracked on the bottom while every cup on the right side of the kiln was perfectly normal</p>
<p>cone 05 bisque firing using cone 6 stoneware clay</p>
<p>Can someone please tell me why every cup on the left side of the kiln bloated and cracked on the bottom while every cup on the right side of the kiln was perfectly normal</p>
<p>cone 05 bisque firing using cone 6 stoneware clay</p> Colemanite and spodumene in glazestag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-26:2103784:Topic:1702112021-02-26T18:19:58.495ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>Hallo,</p>
<p>Is there anyone who can give me some advice on using colemanite and spodumene in glazes?</p>
<p>I have read that use of colemanite can cause some problem in glaze if colemanite is present in big concentration (decrepitation). What can be the maximum<span> </span>concentration that give not big problems? 10%?</p>
<p>If my firing is slow is it possible that this problem will be less?</p>
<p>About spodumene: I have seen that can be better to wash it and that big concentration…</p>
<p>Hallo,</p>
<p>Is there anyone who can give me some advice on using colemanite and spodumene in glazes?</p>
<p>I have read that use of colemanite can cause some problem in glaze if colemanite is present in big concentration (decrepitation). What can be the maximum<span> </span>concentration that give not big problems? 10%?</p>
<p>If my firing is slow is it possible that this problem will be less?</p>
<p>About spodumene: I have seen that can be better to wash it and that big concentration can determine some "wave" In the glaze. Is this problem bigger in single firing? Someone know why it is better to wash spodumene?</p>
<p>Many thanks</p>
<p>Luca</p> Wood ash from pellet stovetag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-21:2103784:Topic:1701012021-02-21T15:27:36.918ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p dir="ltr">Is there anyone who uses the ash produced by pellet stoves and has experience on its use?<br></br> I'm wondering if there are any problems using this ash: I got the impression that the ash is coarser than the fireplace ash.<br></br> Actually the real difference is perhaps that the ash from the pellet stove is fine and fairly homogeneous but has few very thin particles: it seems fine, because there are not big pieces of coal but perhaps the really thin particles are missing because of the…</p>
<p dir="ltr">Is there anyone who uses the ash produced by pellet stoves and has experience on its use?<br/> I'm wondering if there are any problems using this ash: I got the impression that the ash is coarser than the fireplace ash.<br/> Actually the real difference is perhaps that the ash from the pellet stove is fine and fairly homogeneous but has few very thin particles: it seems fine, because there are not big pieces of coal but perhaps the really thin particles are missing because of the forced stove ventilation. Once washed, the ash from the pellet stove is more difficult to filter and remains darker, sometimes almost black. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Is it possible that this aspect gives problems? Can it be solved in your opinion with some adjustments on the stove?</p>
<p dir="ltr"></p>
<p dir="ltr">First photo is wood ash from fireplace</p>
<p dir="ltr">Second photo is from pellet stove</p>
<p dir="ltr">The red and blue effect in the photos is a camera fault.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8581258466?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8581258466?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8581261456?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8581261456?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> New recipes I would like to try. Ideas or advice?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-20:2103784:Topic:1700992021-02-20T17:13:08.146ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>I bought the different dry raw materials and a precise scale, for this reason this time I weighed the ingredients precisely. However, I still use a very dense ash slip instead of dried ash: drying the ash would be too much work at the moment.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm preparing the basic recipes for the next experiments. For now I have prepared the first two recipes based on the first experiments: </p>
<p>First recipe: </p>
<p>- 1 kg potassium feldspar </p>
<p>- 1 kg ball clay </p>
<p>- 170 gr…</p>
<p>I bought the different dry raw materials and a precise scale, for this reason this time I weighed the ingredients precisely. However, I still use a very dense ash slip instead of dried ash: drying the ash would be too much work at the moment.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm preparing the basic recipes for the next experiments. For now I have prepared the first two recipes based on the first experiments: </p>
<p>First recipe: </p>
<p>- 1 kg potassium feldspar </p>
<p>- 1 kg ball clay </p>
<p>- 170 gr bentonite </p>
<p>- 500 ml pheatine </p>
<p>- 2 liters of water </p>
<p>- 4 kg dense ash slip</p>
<p></p>
<p>Second recipe: </p>
<p>- 1 kg potassium feldspar </p>
<p>- 1 kg china clay</p>
<p>- 170 gr bentonite </p>
<p>- 500 ml pheatine </p>
<p>- 2 liters of water </p>
<p>- 4 kg dense ash slip</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm looking for other simple basic recipes to try. Something that can introduce someting new for the experiments with oxides. For this reason I looked to my books searching ideas. </p>
<p>Ideas or advice are very wellcome!!!</p>
<p>I have tried to modify some recipes of "Glazes cone 6 1240°C" book of Michael Bailey: exchanging whiting with wood ash, dolomite with wood ash and talc, exchanging soda feldspar and litium carbonate with spodumene, adding 5% bentonite for single firing. I am trying to modify a cone 8 recipe of the book "colour in glazes" of Linda Bloomfield exchanging soda feldspar with spodumene and calcium borate frit with colemanite, exchanging whiting with wood ash and using a litle less quartz hoping to fire successfully at 1240°C instead of cone 8.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Looking to my books these are some ideas to try:</p>
<p>Recipe 3 (recipe T13 modified from Michael Bailey book): </p>
<p>830gr soda feldspar, 130 china clay, 140 bentonite, 430 quartz, 120 Zinc oxide, 1,5 kg wood ash dense slip. And pheatine.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Recipe 4 (recipe T14 modified from Michael Bailey book):</p>
<p>1kg spodumene, 500gr china clay, 160 gr bentonite, 500gr dense wood ash slip, 100gr talc, 100gr zinc oxide, 240gr quartz.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Recipe 5 (recipe OR1 modified from Michael Bailey book):</p>
<p>1kg spodumene, 130gr china clay, 150gr bentonite, 322gr bone ash, 16gr litio carbonate, 362gr talc, 244gr quartz</p>
<p></p>
<p>Recipe 6 (recipe for chromium green modified from Linda Bloomfield book):</p>
<p>1000gr spodumene, 320gr colemanite, 1000gr dense wood ash slip, 107gr china clay, 300gr quartz, 107gr bentonite.</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">I hope to use this recipe with chromium to obtain a green glaze.</p> First experiment with wood ash glazestag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-20:2103784:Topic:1700312021-02-20T17:03:14.631ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>Last year I decided to resume my passion for modeling clay and in particular stoneware and porcelain clay. </p>
<p>I decided to specialize in single firing (I had a book taken in Scotland several years earlier). </p>
<p>At the moment I'm cooking at 1240°C, non-stop. The cooking lasts 3 hours between 0 and 200°C and then travels at a speed of about 100°C per hour (if I remember correctly: the oven is not mine).</p>
<p>I'm doing glazes experiment using wood ash. This idea came from the fact…</p>
<p>Last year I decided to resume my passion for modeling clay and in particular stoneware and porcelain clay. </p>
<p>I decided to specialize in single firing (I had a book taken in Scotland several years earlier). </p>
<p>At the moment I'm cooking at 1240°C, non-stop. The cooking lasts 3 hours between 0 and 200°C and then travels at a speed of about 100°C per hour (if I remember correctly: the oven is not mine).</p>
<p>I'm doing glazes experiment using wood ash. This idea came from the fact that we use the fireplace and in particular the pellet stove for the winter. </p>
<p>Wood ash from the pellet stove is probably not ideal: because some of the finer particles are lost and the sieve work is longer and give a coarser material. But I have a lot of ash from this stove and it's a shame not to use it, if possible.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I had some book from Scotland about ash glazes and cone 6 glazes and I'm starting from them.</p>
<p>To make my life easier, I use wood ash washed several times but I do not dry it: I let it settle and remove the surface water leaving only about 1 cm of water. </p>
<p>At the beginning I used a volumetric system in the first 2 recipes (photos).</p>
<p>Recipe 1:</p>
<p>- 1 jar of dense slip of 1250°C spotted stoneware clay</p>
<p>- 1 jar of thick potassium feldspar slip</p>
<p>- 2 jars of dense wood ash slip</p>
<p></p>
<p>Recipe 2:</p>
<p>- 1 jar of dense slip of porcelain clay</p>
<p>- 1 jar of thick potassium feldspar slip</p>
<p>- 2 jars of dense wood ash slip.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Than I made 2 little experiment with a little of cobalt and copper oxide.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I calculated that those slips contain approximately 50% water and 50% clay or feldspar. Instead, I estimate a quantity of about 300 grams of dry ash in a liter of ash slip. The calculation is very approximate but future experiment I am conducting will be based on this hypothesis.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8578640871?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8578640871?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> Trying posting photostag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-19:2103784:Topic:1702042021-02-19T21:25:53.605ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8576330301?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8576330301?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8576330301?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8576330301?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> Have you ever tried crater glaze?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-02-18:2103784:Topic:1700202021-02-18T05:52:01.862ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
I've tried a lot of methods, and the most similar recipe is.<br />
Glass 70.<br />
Kaolin 30.<br />
Fine silicon carbide 1.<br />
Copper carbonate 5.<br />
The effect is as shown in the picture.<br />
The problem is that the presence of SIC, in the formula can also cause copper carbonate to turn red in the glaze in an oxidizing atmosphere. Is it possible that it does not need to be made with SIC?<br />
The first picture is the sample picture, and the other two are the results I tried.
I've tried a lot of methods, and the most similar recipe is.<br />
Glass 70.<br />
Kaolin 30.<br />
Fine silicon carbide 1.<br />
Copper carbonate 5.<br />
The effect is as shown in the picture.<br />
The problem is that the presence of SIC, in the formula can also cause copper carbonate to turn red in the glaze in an oxidizing atmosphere. Is it possible that it does not need to be made with SIC?<br />
The first picture is the sample picture, and the other two are the results I tried. Materials substitutiontag:cone6pots.ning.com,2020-11-26:2103784:Topic:1679932020-11-26T03:37:28.678ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>can Gillespie borate be substituted for gerstley borate</p>
<p>can Gillespie borate be substituted for gerstley borate</p> Cone 6 Overfiretag:cone6pots.ning.com,2020-10-13:2103784:Topic:1643162020-10-13T16:51:34.613ZShelley Bauer, Blue Apple Studiohttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/ShelleyBauerBlueAppleStudio
<p>My kiln overtired probably Cone 6&1/2. A lot of my stuff in the middle 2 trays came out muddy and dark with the glazes not doing what was expected. Would refiring at Cone 5 brighten up the colours any?</p>
<p>My kiln overtired probably Cone 6&1/2. A lot of my stuff in the middle 2 trays came out muddy and dark with the glazes not doing what was expected. Would refiring at Cone 5 brighten up the colours any?</p>