Firing Techniques - Electric Mid&Hi Fired Ceramics2024-03-19T09:17:54Zhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/forum/categories/firing-techniques/listForCategory?feed=yes&xn_auth=noRuined cupstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2021-04-01:2103784:Topic:1704562021-04-01T23:51:14.066ZRobert spicerhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/Robertspicer
<p>Can someone please tell me why every cup on the left side of the kiln bloated and cracked on the bottom while every cup on the right side of the kiln was perfectly normal</p>
<p>cone 05 bisque firing using cone 6 stoneware clay</p>
<p>Can someone please tell me why every cup on the left side of the kiln bloated and cracked on the bottom while every cup on the right side of the kiln was perfectly normal</p>
<p>cone 05 bisque firing using cone 6 stoneware clay</p> Question about kiln repair (please help!)tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2020-05-09:2103784:Topic:1555072020-05-09T23:41:07.614ZJohn Talbothttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JohnTalbot
<p><span>I have a question. I just dropped my lid to my 17" Skutt P10 kiln and it shattered. It stayed together thankfully but is not usable right now... I intend to repair it as fast as possible but need to know if I can use furnace refractory cement to fix it or if I need to wait for kiln repair cement to become available. Please help, I am not experienced in repairing kilns but this is something I can manage. Am I safe using furnace cement? Thanks!…</span></p>
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<p><span>I have a question. I just dropped my lid to my 17" Skutt P10 kiln and it shattered. It stayed together thankfully but is not usable right now... I intend to repair it as fast as possible but need to know if I can use furnace refractory cement to fix it or if I need to wait for kiln repair cement to become available. Please help, I am not experienced in repairing kilns but this is something I can manage. Am I safe using furnace cement? Thanks!</span></p>
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<p><span><a href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/Durst-Furnace-Cement/3455644?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_--_-google-_-lia-_-171-_-baseboardheatandhumidification-_-3455644-_-0&store_code=2536&placeholder=null&gclid=CjwKCAjwqdn1BRBREiwAEbZcRwRFcXZeUnoYP-BYx6o9VkztnIuT_OBmUimx7khhWcbpZqk3YQ1ekxoCRegQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds">https://www.lowes.com/pd/Durst-Furnace-Cement/3455644?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_--_-google-_-lia-_-171-_-baseboardheatandhumidification-_-3455644-_-0&store_code=2536&placeholder=null&gclid=CjwKCAjwqdn1BRBREiwAEbZcRwRFcXZeUnoYP-BYx6o9VkztnIuT_OBmUimx7khhWcbpZqk3YQ1ekxoCRegQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds</a></span></p>
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<p><span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpUedqtHr8I">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpUedqtHr8I</a></span></p> Firing question re Crystalline Glazestag:cone6pots.ning.com,2019-09-15:2103784:Topic:1541712019-09-15T09:45:00.721ZAyjayhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/AlexanderJohnPleasance
<p>I'm planning to test a couple of crystalline glazes. I don't really want a whole kiln full of test pots, nor a kiln with just a couple of pots being fired.</p>
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<p>I'm wondering if anyone has any insight as to how my usual ^6 glazes (mostly mixed by me, but I also have a couple of bought brush-ons that I use) will react to the schedule of a crystalline firing.</p>
<p>I'm planning to test a couple of crystalline glazes. I don't really want a whole kiln full of test pots, nor a kiln with just a couple of pots being fired.</p>
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<p>I'm wondering if anyone has any insight as to how my usual ^6 glazes (mostly mixed by me, but I also have a couple of bought brush-ons that I use) will react to the schedule of a crystalline firing.</p> Firing with Cornstarch on the Clay Surfacetag:cone6pots.ning.com,2018-03-03:2103784:Topic:1479392018-03-03T04:39:15.753ZBarbara Hanselmanhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/BarbaraHanselman
<p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I like to use cornstarch with my classes to keep my flexible rubber stamps from sticking to the clay surface but a kiln tech at one of my art center studios told me that cornstarch residue is hard on the kiln elements when bisque firing. Does anyone have info on the effects of using cornstarch on greenware? Does the cornstarch adversely affect the kiln elements? How can I find out if it is bad for the elements?…</span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I like to use cornstarch with my classes to keep my flexible rubber stamps from sticking to the clay surface but a kiln tech at one of my art center studios told me that cornstarch residue is hard on the kiln elements when bisque firing. Does anyone have info on the effects of using cornstarch on greenware? Does the cornstarch adversely affect the kiln elements? How can I find out if it is bad for the elements?</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Thanks, Barbara</span></p> Am I dense or whattag:cone6pots.ning.com,2017-06-29:2103784:Topic:1430482017-06-29T12:03:02.893Zcatherine simmonshttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/catherinesimmons
I'm having difficulty understanding cooling segments. How can a kiln cool at 999degrees per hour (1900 from 2115)when it seems to take forever to go from 400 to 200. It seems it would need an AC unit to kick in to achieve that fast of a temp drop<br />
By the way I have a used L&L
I'm having difficulty understanding cooling segments. How can a kiln cool at 999degrees per hour (1900 from 2115)when it seems to take forever to go from 400 to 200. It seems it would need an AC unit to kick in to achieve that fast of a temp drop<br />
By the way I have a used L&L Type-S thermocoupletag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-06-26:2103784:Topic:1349452016-06-26T06:43:56.244ZNorm Stuarthttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart
<p>Is <a href="http://www.Keramik-Kraft.de">www.Keramik-Kraft.de</a> in Germany the least expensive place to purchase a Type-S thermocouple?</p>
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<p>The <strong><span class="st">€</span>95.80</strong> price, roughly <strong>$107</strong>, is well less than half the price asked by kiln makers and other US vendors I know of.…</p>
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<p>Is <a href="http://www.Keramik-Kraft.de">www.Keramik-Kraft.de</a> in Germany the least expensive place to purchase a Type-S thermocouple?</p>
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<p>The <strong><span class="st">€</span>95.80</strong> price, roughly <strong>$107</strong>, is well less than half the price asked by kiln makers and other US vendors I know of.</p>
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<p><a href="http://www.keramik-kraft.de/DE/Ofenbau_-_Reparatur/Temperaturmessung/Thermoelemente_Platin_Typ_S/Thermoelement_Typ_S_l_180mm_Kopf_x_1_St_O0013018.html?sel=3" target="_blank">180 mm long Type-S thermocouple</a></p>
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<p>3 years after installing our Type-S thermocouple it gave use an error message. I'm hoping cleaning it may fix the problem as it looks intact, but we may need a new one.</p> Firing to cone 6 twice in the same firing?tag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-06-22:2103784:Topic:1342692016-06-22T16:06:50.779ZJoseph Firebornhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/JosephRosenblatt
<p>So I have a curious question for all you cone 6 firers out there. I recently refired a few pots and the glaze was completely free of microdimples. I have really good surfaces on most of my glossy glazes but there are always really tiny dimples, you can't even see them unless you hold the pot about 8 inches from your eyes. However on these refired pots, they had no microdimples!</p>
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<p>So it got me thinking about trying something I have never tired before. </p>
<p>Firing to cone 6,…</p>
<p>So I have a curious question for all you cone 6 firers out there. I recently refired a few pots and the glaze was completely free of microdimples. I have really good surfaces on most of my glossy glazes but there are always really tiny dimples, you can't even see them unless you hold the pot about 8 inches from your eyes. However on these refired pots, they had no microdimples!</p>
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<p>So it got me thinking about trying something I have never tired before. </p>
<p>Firing to cone 6, dropping to 1940F then firing to cone 6 again. Of course the glaze I am using doesn't move at all, so I am not worried about it running off the pots. I am just curious if anyone has tried this method before or something similar. I am super particular about bad surfaces on my glossy glazes, if this solved it I would be happy to do it as refiring all my pots for a better surface seems a bit crazy.</p>
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<p>I was looking at commercial ware at a local shop and I noticed almost all of their pots when held up close have microdimples as well, so maybe I shouldn't worry about it too much, but I just can't help to try something new to see if it works.</p>
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<p>Anyone? Any Ideas? Comments? </p> Warm Glasstag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-04-13:2103784:Topic:1289962016-04-13T04:19:29.061ZNorm Stuarthttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/NormStuart
<p>Has anyone else fused frit into a glass bowl?</p>
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<p>We've been asked to do a glass project, which is apparently called "warm glass" being fired only to 1,250 to 1,450 F with an hour long annealing hold at 970 as it cools. I'm curious if anyone else has experience with this.</p>
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<p>¿ Perhaps I should post this on <strong>Cone 016 Pots</strong> ?</p>
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<p>I've tried different COE glass and settled on COE 90. After reading the booklet "<strong>Clay Molds for Warm…</strong></p>
<p>Has anyone else fused frit into a glass bowl?</p>
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<p>We've been asked to do a glass project, which is apparently called "warm glass" being fired only to 1,250 to 1,450 F with an hour long annealing hold at 970 as it cools. I'm curious if anyone else has experience with this.</p>
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<p>¿ Perhaps I should post this on <strong>Cone 016 Pots</strong> ?</p>
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<p>I've tried different COE glass and settled on COE 90. After reading the booklet "<strong>Clay Molds for Warm Glass</strong>"</p>
<p><a href="http://smile.amazon.com/Clay-Molds-Warm-Glass-Burton-ebook/dp/B00FBPKHUC">https://www.amazon.com/Clay-Molds-Warm-Glass-Burton-ebook/dp/B00FBPKHUC</a></p>
<p>I've learned the author, an experienced ceramicist, finally settled on using <strong>Paper Clay with Grog</strong> to make the glass molds.</p>
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<p>Glass, like most glaze, has a higher COE than clay - so you can melt glass in a bisque container and the glass cools smaller than the ceramic so lifts out, particularly if the ceramic is coated with glass kiln wash. I've found <strong>calcium carbonate (whiting) is the best glass kiln wash</strong> - much better than the commercial glass shelf wash, which is kaolin with a little bit of plaster. I've also discovered glass is quite a bit more expensive than ceramic and making your own "batch glass" ceramic glaze.</p>
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<p>The problem with fusing a bowl, is the interior. Since glass shrinks more than ceramic as it cools, it separates from the ceramic bowl it sits in, but if I place a ceramic insert to form the interior of the glass bowl - the glass, like glaze, will shrink around the clay making extraction impossible.</p>
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<p>The author of the booklet Ava Burton said she uses wire mesh covered in a refractory fabric to form the interior, but I think there has to be a more elegant solution. Metal has a higher COE than glass, but it has to be a metal which can withstand corrosion at 1,450 F temperature and not transfer metal coloring to the glass.</p>
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<p>Barton simply makes the observation that glass sticks to some things but not to other things without taking the observation further. <strong>I understand how to slump a bowl from a glass sheet, but we want to make a thicker fused bowl.</strong></p>
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<p>Has anyone else made a fused glass bowl in your kiln, and how did you form the interior?</p>
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<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822869?profile=original"><img class="align-left" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3036822869?profile=original" width="314"/></a></p> Scheduling slow-cool cycles after you have reached temptag:cone6pots.ning.com,2016-03-10:2103784:Topic:1283812016-03-10T20:40:09.084ZIan Hall-Houghhttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/IanHallHough
<p>Hi all - I did not schedule a slow cooling cycle when I fired the kiln, but decided after it had reach temp that I wanted to try it. Is there a way you know of to program this way? I was planning 500f/h to 1900, then 150F/h to 1400, but when I press start it thinks the program is finished. Thoughts?</p>
<p>Hi all - I did not schedule a slow cooling cycle when I fired the kiln, but decided after it had reach temp that I wanted to try it. Is there a way you know of to program this way? I was planning 500f/h to 1900, then 150F/h to 1400, but when I press start it thinks the program is finished. Thoughts?</p> Firing pots with lids ontag:cone6pots.ning.com,2015-11-03:2103784:Topic:1262642015-11-03T23:15:08.162ZTom Humphrieshttps://cone6pots.ning.com/profile/TomHumphries
<p>I recently did a bisque firing and had problems with cracking of my small storage jars. They didn't actually fall apart, but cracks are clearly visible.</p>
<p>I think the problem was I tried to fire too fast, my studio is pretty damp at this time of year and I stupidly tried to rush the kiln because I wanted to go to bed.</p>
<p>The only reason I'm posting this is that the only jar that didn't crack was one that I fired the lid and jar separately, which made me wonder if this is a better…</p>
<p>I recently did a bisque firing and had problems with cracking of my small storage jars. They didn't actually fall apart, but cracks are clearly visible.</p>
<p>I think the problem was I tried to fire too fast, my studio is pretty damp at this time of year and I stupidly tried to rush the kiln because I wanted to go to bed.</p>
<p>The only reason I'm posting this is that the only jar that didn't crack was one that I fired the lid and jar separately, which made me wonder if this is a better way of doing it. I've also thought maybe turning the lid inside out, and resting it on top might be better as there would be less density of clay where the gallery and lid meet...</p>
<p>I'm sure most people fire their jars with lids in place, but I just thought I'd check if this is common practice?</p>