I'm officially down the Rabbit Hole. After a 10 year hiatus from Clay, but not from Art, I've come back to the Wheel. I'm starting where I left off, in a way, because my interests are very similar, Large Pots.
Yes, I make tiny bowls, that's another love, and a challenge to trim in the perfect foot, and keeping up with the fast drying time so I can carve in some details, another love. These are a Max of 3" wide, mainly used as Ring Catchers or for condiments, like Soy Sauce, or Hot Sauce, and I'm sure other things I don't know about.
However, if I was asked to tell you what really lights me up, it's throwing Big Pots. That's where the fascination ends, I've never attempted to glaze one, yet.
So, as I'm coming back to them, the question stares me in fhe face...how are you gonna finish them? I've posed that question to others, and I get a blank stare. Pouring seems like a simple (har) solution, but I just don't have the space. My Studio is 11 x 12, and also includes other equipment, such as my Warm Glass Torch, which, with supplies, takes an entire counter.
I'm screaming in my head, trying to decide on how best to enhance my pots, successfully, and I'm stumped. I was playing with the idea of coming up with a Slip Glaze, made from the Clay Body I'm using. In the past, I used Armstone, Cone 10. It holds up beautifully, no warping, and at 24-36" in height, 20-25# of clay, that's saying something. I've just bought Cone 6 B-Mix w/Grog. If anyone has any experience with that, it would be great to know some details. I've used B-Mix, Cone 10, in the past and loved it, but not for large pots, hence going for the Grog.
The Questions? Will it work that large and not warp? Will the grog addition cause any color changes in my glazes? I did come up with some nice Cone 6 Glazes just before I left my Clay Work, and I'll try those, but I'd rather not try and use the 'normal' glaze application with those large pots...I'm not as young and strong as I used to be.
What I'm going to attempt to do is to come up with a Slip Glaze, meaning that I mix it from my clay body, sieve it, add colorants, find out what I need to add to stablilize it, if anything (like a terra sig, but NOT), paint it on a still wet, but firmed up, pot. Obviously, this means Single Firing, and that's another goal I'm aiming for. I have a nice understanding of that, it's the 'Colored Skin' that I 'see in my head', but I'm not sure how to produce.
Does anyone have any suggestions about how to go about this? Am I nuts? Does it ring any bells?
I've read posts, and see that there is a lot of really talented and knowledgeable members, and I respect your time, interests and intelligence. Me, I'm just not interested in going back to Re-Learn all I knew about Glaze Formulation, etc. It's just not my thing. My thing is Throwing, that's what makes me happy, and the Glazing/Finishing aspect just makes me tired. It sucks the energy right out of me. I get that that might be heresy for some, others will understand.
I've read Pete Pinnell, on the subject of Terra Sig, took a workshop with him in 1998, but that was then and this is now...plus he was a reduction guy, I think, and it's all lost to the sands of time, for me.
So, whether I want to or not, it's back to the books for me. I'd love to read all the posts, but time is not my friend right now, I'm sure you understand.
Thanks for reading this long post, believe me, I cut it short! LOL Karen

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Low cost flat lapping disc can be used on you potters wheel if you, drill bat pin holes in it, and provide a trickle of water to cool it. At amazon.com, 120 grit for aggressive material removal. Click the image to purchase 

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Purchase Glazes Cone 6 by Michael Bailey, The Potters Book of Glaze Recipes by Emmanuel Cooper, or Making Marks by Robin Hopper, all available at amazon.comMastering Cone 6 Glazes by John Hesselberth & Ron Roy is now out of print.

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