Transparent Green Glaze

[Dave Hodapp]

Does anyone have a suggestion for a glossy, or semi-gloss, green glaze? Preferably transparent. I did locate a couple of glazes in the Insight Live Group database that might work and will try testing them; Buck Sea Green 2, Frogpond Green (with copper carb), Hesselberth Floating Green.

Thanks

[Jan Wallace]

Hi Dave. I have been using 'Waxy White' with various amounts of copper carb. Testing is the key to get the shade of green you are looking for.

Cone: 6 Color: white
Firing: Oxidation Surface: Semiglossy

Amount Ingredient
37.2 Wollastonite
23.5 Silica
14.9 Kaolin--EPK
14.5 Nepheline Syenite
9.9 Gerstley Borate--1999
100 Total
Additives
5 Zircopax

Exp Comments: Very nice semi-matte white on white stoneware. On Laguna 80 it tended to go clear gloss where thin (possibly fluxing iron from body, or over fired on test to or near ^7. Most reliable liner glaze as of 4/09

Comments above are from where I sourced the glaze, but my experience is glossy at Cone 6 on a Cone 6 white clay body. Does not craze on my clay body. Soak for 15 mins at Cone 6. I leave in the Zircopax and add percentages of up to 4% copper to achieve a nice light celadon type green. You could reduce the zircopax to around 3%. Or, alternatively, leave out the zircopax altogether and see what this gives you. Apply by dipping, spraying. I brushed on the glaze in the pic below, but not advised for larger pieces at all. Single fires well too.

George also gave me a great clear Cone 6 recipe some time ago which i use all the time. It does not craze, applies beautifully by brushing, dipping or spraying. I single fire with this glaze too. I plan to do some tests with various oxides as I love this glaze and would like to limit my glazes to a few by choosing reliable bases and adjust / tweek from there to achieve colours i am looking for. I will let you know how that goes. Here is the recipe for that.

Recipe Name:  5-6 Clear
Cone:  6     Oxidation     Surface:  Glossy
Amount Ingredient

40          Feldspar--Kona F4

30          Gerstley Borate--1999

20          Ball Clay--Old Mine #4

10          Silica

100         Total

Hope this helps.

 

[Dave Hodapp]

Jan:

Than you very much for the suggestions. I will give them a try. I have been using a porcelain clay body and most clear glazes seem to craze on it. The clear glazes that did not craze turned all the green colorants I tried to an olive green which I did not want.

[Jan Wallace]

Dave,

There is also 'Water Colour Green' which is a lovely glaze. You could test it to see how it goes on your clay body. I have used it before with nice results. It is suggested on this site to be used over Strontium Crystal Magic, but I also have used it by itself. Applied by spraying. Its a little fragile in the unfired state once applied but a lovely colour with no crazing for me. Perhaps you could bisque fire to a slightly higher temp to reduce the chance of crazing on your body?

Recipe

Custer Feldspar       49.1                

Silica                     17.5

Lithium                    4.1

Frit 3124                 5.1

Whiting                 16.4

Strontium Carb         7.7

Add:

Copper Carb           8.2

Bentonite               3.1

 

[Kabe Burleson]

Hi Dave, There is a picture of this glaze on my Gallery page. It is the green on the cattail leaves and the Celtic knots . The green leaves on the pedistal sink Show it thick and thin. Grestly Borate 22.22. Zinc Oxide 2.22, Frit Ferro 3110 11.11, Neph Synite 53.34, Tile clay #6 14.12   copper Carb, 4.44  Could try one mix with out the zinc that may make it more transparent. I have also made it with a one for one exchange of Grestly Borate and Frit 3195. Most of my stuff was fired flat but not the pedistal. Might work for ya. Happy firing

[Dave Hodapp]

Thanks Kabe. I'll give it a try. Nice tile work by the way!!

[Dave Hodapp]

Thanks again Jan. Both glazes and pieces look very nice.

[Penny Berglund]

You might try this Faux Celadon from Bellevue College. It has tested well on B Mix 5 for me.

Soda Spar (I used Kona)  50

EPK                               10

Silica                              10

Gerstley Borate               10

Wollastonite                    20    

Add Copper Carb 1, Rutile 1  (Leave out Rutile if you want it to be clearer)

 

Penny Berglund

[Dave Hodapp]

Thank you, I will give it a try.

[June Perry]

You might try an oribe base for a good green. Here's one I found on the Internet. It's a Bill Van Gilder glaze.

Oribe Green

 

zinc oxide...................................8

Edgar plastic kaolin...................12

whiting.......................................24

silica..........................................24

custer feldspar..........................32

 

total..........................................100

 

add copper carbonate................4%

bentonite....................................1%

I don't have time to run it through my glaze software; but I'd probably up the silica by 5 and lower the kaolin by that much as a start. Oribes tend to be in the semi gloss and for porcelain you usually need more silica to avoid the crazing. If you know how to use glaze software you can tweak  the alumina and silica to give you a 10-12 ratio of silica to alumina. I wouldn't go more than 4% copper if using it on anything that could be used to serve food. Copper, even in a cone 10 glaze, won't have enough silica to deal with the more than 4% of copper and would make an unsafe glaze because the copper won't be stable, especially in the presence of any kind of acid food or liquid.

[June Perry]

June Perry said:

You might try an oribe base for a good green. Here's one I found on the Internet. It's a Bill Van Gilder glaze.

Oribe Green

 C6 Oribe for porcelain  June Perry
 
custer    32.09
zinc oxide    6.22
whiting    16.55
epk    9.03
silica    35.11
talc    1.00
copper carbonate    4
bentonite    1

Version 2: omit talc and up silica. Give 6.6 expansion.

   Oribes tend to be in the semi gloss and for porcelain you usually need more silica to avoid the crazing. If you know how to use glaze software you can tweak other stoneware recipes to work with porcelain. Aim to get the alumina and silica to give you a 10-12 ratio of silica to alumina for a gloss. I wouldn't go more than 4% copper if using it on anything that could be used to serve food. Copper, even in a cone 10 glaze, won't have enough silica to deal with the more than 4% of copper and would make an unsafe glaze because the copper won't be stable, especially in the presence of any kind of acid food or liquid.

[June Perry]

Just add 1-2% Copper carb or copper oxide to any transparent base for a light, celadon type green. Upping the copper to 3-5% will give you darker tones. Remember that copper in the 4-5% range most probably would not be a food safe glaze because of leaching, so it's best to keep it off surfaces used for serving or storing food.